Front sprocket cover - allen bolts.

I recently tried to take off the front sprocket cover and used cheap allen keys so it rounded them off. Undid them with a chisel and a flathead screwdriver so I need new ones. I know I could go to a dealer but I prefer to shop online. Anyone know the product code or where I can access a parts list? 

Do you have any bolt shops near you?

If you can find one just take the old bolts in and they should be able to match something up for you

I know it is just a "dust" cover, but I would have been fairly nervous with a chisel near those bolts, especially how sunken they are   

+1 about the bolt shop, they'll have a good range, the right size, and you get them straight away.  Even though the price will be higher, not having to wait 3-4 weeks for the free postage parcel is incentive to support the local shop.

The engine bolt kits off EBay replace these as well as the other fastenings with quality stainless bolts.  I fitted a set and they look great:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Bandit-GSF650-GSF-1250-Stainless-Engine-Bolt-Kit-/370286424973?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item5636ca738d&vxp=mtr

Speed Dealer wrote:I recently tried to take off the front sprocket cover and used cheap allen keys so it rounded them off. Undid them with a chisel and a flathead screwdriver so I need new ones.

If you ever have this sort of problem again, here is a little tip.

If the bolts won't "crack" before the allen key starts to burr the head, use a hammer & pin punch the right size, in this case 8-10mm dia. & give them a couple of good wacks. The shock & pressure on the head is usually enough to release the tension.

It will also push the damaged hex back into shape & also help make the allen key fit better.

kewwig wrote:The engine bolt kits off EBay replace these as well as the other fastenings with quality stainless bolts.  I fitted a set and they look great:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Bandit-GSF650-GSF-1250-Stainless-Engine-Bolt-Kit-/370286424973?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item5636ca738d&vxp=mtr

That explains the 3 I had left over last Sunday

My bolt kit turned up in a week but if you're just after a couple I'd go local.
I could post you my old ones if you're desperate

FWIW I paid good money for a quality 5mm hex key just for this job  

that's quiet concerning, given the fact that those bolts are of low NM torque settings.

Even with a cheap arse set, should undo it.

Were they corroded in any way? Put some never seize on them when you replace them.

Provided that the Allen key was the right one , it's usually the key that rounds off if it's a cheap quality one , not the bolt .................maybe whoever did them up last time got a bit enthusiastic .

mtbeerwah wrote:that's quiet concerning, given the fact that those bolts are of low NM torque settings.

Even with a cheap arse set, should undo it.

Were they corroded in any way? Put some never seize on them when you replace them.

I think I saw 22ft/lb.
I got some copper gresse from Super Cheap for mine. A tube of it will do thousands of bolts.

I worked as a mechanic/fitter on the wharves for 9 years including a lot of plant and equipment mounted on floating pontoons, these are the best 2 products we ever found

Kopr-Kote
www.jetlube.com/KOPR-KOTE-Industrial-P748.aspx

and Never Seez
www.neverseezproducts.com/antiseize.htm

2wheelsagain wrote:I think I saw 22ft/lb.
I got some copper gresse from Super Cheap for mine. A tube of it will do thousands of bolts.

 that's seems quiet high for a 5-6mm bolt, if that's what they are.

don`t quote me, but on my gen2, they`re about 13nm.

I know they`re different bikes, but that size going into ally doesn`t need to be that high.

my triple clamps for my folks are 8-10mm bolts, and are only 23nm, and that's a high stress zone.

Best thing to do with that cover is throw it away. It's ugly

The OEM bolts in the cover are made of shiny cheese.  They don't need much more than a hand tighten and certainly no need to crank them tight.  Replacing them with normal allen bolts is simple.

paul wrote:Provided that the Allen key was the right one , it's usually the key that rounds off if it's a cheap quality one , not the bolt .................maybe whoever did them up last time got a bit enthusiastic .

I bought the bike with 8000km on it and the owner had only ever used the dealer to service it. It now has 30,000km on it and this is the first time I've ever taken it off. Must've been the dealer? Too late now.

mtbeerwah wrote:

2wheelsagain wrote:I think I saw 22ft/lb.
I got some copper gresse from Super Cheap for mine. A tube of it will do thousands of bolts.

 that's seems quiet high for a 5-6mm bolt, if that's what they are.

don`t quote me, but on my gen2, they`re about 13nm.

I know they`re different bikes, but that size going into ally doesn`t need to be that high.

my triple clamps for my folks are 8-10mm bolts, and are only 23nm, and that's a high stress zone.

Yes now that i think about it it does sound high. I'll have a look at the service manual for shits and giggles.
I undid mine with a small 3/8 socket set but they did "crack". i didnt have a meter of pipe on the Allen key doing them up  

I had to use a 2mtr gal pipe fitted over a socket wrench to crack a front
sprocket nut . I placed a hammer with a solid fiberglass shaft over the swing arm with a wheel spoke against the shaft .With foot on rear brake I push on the end of the 6' gal pipe.
Finally "CRACK"  yep ,hammer shaft broke .

Note to person who fitted it = It has a retaining clip .try 90nm NOT 299nm
Same as fork caps ,they have an o-ring .Im sick of damaging alloy top because the mechanic
rattle gunned them solid .
Rant over 

I agree with you Gus.
Even factory engine builders at Suzuki seem to be hand fisted, when it comes to torque settings.
The cam carrier bolts on my SV are supposed to be done to 8 'lb. I had to get a 1/2" drive breaker bar to undo them. No thread lock on the bolts when I got them out.