First chain and sprockets change in nearly 30 years.

Yeah I bet you all wish your chain and sprockets lasted 30 years. So do I.

The 1200 has a real tight spot in the chain. So have new X ring chain and new sprockets to go on. I am using the standard size sprockets.

I have not done this job in nearly 30 years. I know what to do. I have watched a few You Tube videos to refresh my memory. I have bought a 32mm socket to get the drive sprocket nut off.

Tomorrow I shall be cussing as I do this job. I so miss shaft drive.

Can't help with the question Ross - but out of curiosity how many k's did the old chain & sprockets rack up?

Ewok1958 wrote:Can't help with the question Ross - but out of curiosity how many k's did the old chain & sprockets rack up?

About 8k in my ownership so far. How many before i do not know. I have full service records but they have not recorded chain changes at all. The bike has 47k on it.

The tight spot in the chain can be felt through the pegs and heard.

I shall listen for the cry of anguish at say ,11.15 am ? Using a grinder on the pins method (my favourite )?

gus wrote:I shall listen for the cry of anguish at say ,11.15 am ? Using a grinder on the pins method (my favourite )?

I hope to be done by 11:00. hahaha famous last words. Yes the angle grinder will be taking the pins off. And anything else that gets in the way of my rage against the chain.

I have 2 different joining links. The old fashion hairpin type and the type you have to peen over.

Im doing just my front sprocket tomorrow on my 1200 oil boiler, is that a 32mm socket as well?

NZspokes wrote:Im doing just my front sprocket tomorrow on my 1200 oil boiler, is that a 32mm socket as well?

We have the same bikes mate. I have been told it is 32mm so thats what i bought.

32mm socket, large breaker bar and someone to stand on the rear brake did it for me. Easy peasy.

I've also done chains on my road and dirt bikes and it's piss easy if you have the right tools. I am yet to buy a decent tool to do the rivet links. In the past all the other bikes I've used split links, but on the Bandit I wouldn't trust it. 47k is pretty good out of a chain, a mate at work got 83000 out of his OEM on his 05-06 SV1000. He had a Scotoiler on it from new

Not certain, but as the second owner of my bike I believe it is the original chain and sprockets on my bandit.. which has over 33000 klms on it. Seems to still have a bit of life in it thank goodness, though it does need to be tightened.

Will be doing this when I service it for the first time(this bike since owning).. coming up soon, have all stuff just need the time off, so be prepared to hear fussing coming from qld

Hang on a minute, I have always thought I needed to change chain at 10 000klm and sprocket every 15-20 000 or when the teeth are pointing forward. Which is what I have lived by since day dot. Geez the money I could have saved.
Question - what does a tight spot on the chain/sprocket sound/feel like?
truck

There is evidence that the previous owner of my bike had a scottoiler fitted. This may well explain why the chain has lasted so long. Maybe.

A tight spot feels like a rhythmic thump through the footpegs. As the chain goes around the drive sprocket that tight spot tries to follow the curve of the sprocket but does not. It is alos a very stiff link that will not flex and conform to the sprocket. Also you can hear a clunking sound as the tight spot goes around the drive sprocket at low speed. This is what causes the thump and clunk.

truck wrote:
Question - what does a tight spot on the chain/sprocket sound/feel like?
truck

Two bikes ago on a VZ800 I used to use a pressure pack Chain Wax for lubricating the chain.
Over a period of time I detected a "shudder" when travelling at low speed.
I put the bike on a makeshift centre stand and rotating the back wheel could see the chain not straightening out at two links when coming past the rear sprocket.
I removed the chain and could not move the links by hand but could do so using a couple of screwdrivers.
I soaked this part of the chain in kerosine and they freed up.
Since that time I only lube the chain with 80/90 gear oil (almost as per owners manual where engine oil is suggested) and have had no problems.

Nearly an hour and a half in and I am about to cut the new chain to length and fit that to the new sprockets that are now on the bike. All going wel so far. No swearing and the angle grinder has not attacked a thing in anger.

Including taking the dogs out for a walk this morning and a test ride it is done. Just under 3 1/2 hours.

No dramas. I peened the pins over. The clip link will go in the bikes tool kit for just in case moments.

just curious mate,but did you loctite the centre locking bolt? not the main nut(in case you didn`t know,the main nut 115nm)

mtbeerwah wrote:just curious mate,but did you loctite the centre locking bolt? not the main nut(in case you didn`t know,the main nut 115nm)

Which one is this???

Ross. wrote:

mtbeerwah wrote:just curious mate,but did you loctite the centre locking bolt? not the main nut(in case you didn`t know,the main nut 115nm)

Which one is this???

have you,or have you not got a centre lock nut?

as per the manual,and as mine also has, it starts with the main nut,tightened to 115nm,then a lock tab,which is bent around your nut,(and really IMO should be enough) then there is a centre bolt and washer that is to be loctited to 11nm that presses against the main nut,as a lock nut

mtbeerwah wrote:

Ross. wrote:

mtbeerwah wrote:just curious mate,but did you loctite the centre locking bolt? not the main nut(in case you didn`t know,the main nut 115nm)

Which one is this???

have you,or have you not got a centre lock nut?

as per the manual,and as mine also has, it starts with the main nut,tightened to 115nm,then a lock tab,which is bent around your nut,(and really IMO should be enough) then there is a centre bolt and washer that is to be loctited to 11nm that presses against the main nut,as a lock nut

I understand what you mean now.

I have the main nut that has behind it against the sprocket the locking washer. this washer I have turned over in 2 places. The Nut was done to 115nm.

The centre bolt is there to hold the speedo pickup from my reading of the manual. It came off with no evidence of locite. I have done that up by hand and not the with a torque wrench as this is an allen headed bolt and I don't have allen head fitting, just allen keys.

I can always revisit the speedo pick up bolt and put loctite on it.

sorry correct, speedo pickup

just wondering,what manual do you have?

i got haynes,and it only refers to front wheel cable as speedo pickup not as front sprocket sensor

Ross. wrote:

NZspokes wrote:Im doing just my front sprocket tomorrow on my 1200 oil boiler, is that a 32mm socket as well?

We have the same bikes mate. I have been told it is 32mm so thats what i bought.

Cheers Mate. Yes was a 32mm and a 20min job. easy.

mtbeerwah wrote:sorry correct, speedo pickup

just wondering,what manual do you have?

i got haynes,and it only refers to front wheel cable as speedo pickup not as front sprocket sensor

I have a factory one that is in PDF format. I got it off the net.

mtbeerwah wrote:

Ross. wrote:

mtbeerwah wrote:just curious mate,but did you loctite the centre locking bolt? not the main nut(in case you didn`t know,the main nut 115nm)

Which one is this???

have you,or have you not got a centre lock nut?

as per the manual,and as mine also has, it starts with the main nut,tightened to 115nm,then a lock tab,which is bent around your nut,(and really IMO should be enough) then there is a centre bolt and washer that is to be loctited to 11nm that presses against the main nut,as a lock nut

The "Center Lock Nut" is ,I suspect,the speedo sensor trigger wheel.

Have a guess what i just fitted .I'll give you a clue , it went with 18 front 44 rear .(could not get 45 ) .Still too hard ?

gus wrote:Have a guess what i just fitted .I'll give you a clue , it went with 18 front 44 rear .(could not get 45 ) .Still too hard ?

Puppy power ? ..........could be a bugger to clean that model as well