Help with fitting new chain please

Hi, Have ordered a new Renthal R4 srs chain from Jake Wilson.

I have never fitted a new chain before, any tips please.

I don't have a chain breaker & I have seen Gus's chain topic but could do with a little more detail on the link fitting with basic tools.

Sprockets look ok & remaining on the bike, unless someone can convince me otherwise.

Thanks in advance

Pops

I too would like to know how to do this. Not that i have to yet. Too many shaft drive bikes over the years.

Do modern chains still have joining links with a circlip? Or do you have to peen the ends of the pins to get it to hold the chain together?

Hi Pops,
you really need a chain rivetting tool. You'll need an angle grinder to grind down the pins on one of the links on your old chain, and then knock the link out with a centre punch. Put your new sprockets on ( you DID buy sprockets as well?), wrap the new chain around and join the ends together using the spring clips supplied with the chain. Push the link pins through, with the o rings on them, put the o rings and top plate on and go nuts with your chain rivetting tool (careful not to squeeze the o rings). You could get it all to the rivet stage and then trailer the bike to a shop to rivet it for you. Do you know of anyone with a rivetting tool you could swap a sixpack with for an afternoon's use? I bought a tool from JW, but it was crap. looky here....

The other way to do it is to keep the chain as an endless loop. You will have to remove the swingarm for it, but it's good to service that now and then too. Slip the old chain out, cut your new chain to length (116 links for a 1250?) and put the chain together on a bench and rivet it on an anvil with a ball peen hammer, again being careful not to stuff the o rings. Reverse job to put it all back together.

Some chains use removable clips to join them. I bought the same chain as you and I'm fairly sure there was a warning not to use one of them to join it. Something for you to look into.

I've never had to do a road bike chain swap but have done plenty on dirt bikes but in those days the clip system was the way to go.
Theoretically the clips don't carry any stress so they should be fine but honestly an endless chain sounds much more secure on high speed/power/torque road bikes. When or if the time comes I will get a riveting tool and I'd be swapping sprockets as well.
Not doing sprockets makes as much sense as using an old oil filter to filter fresh oil and a chain is something most of us may change what once?

I might get howled down here but i have always been of the understanding that you should replace both chain and sprockets as if you just replace the chain it will wear out prematurely, bit like the Master says they are one

I just replaced my chain and sprockets on my bandit and it clear states in the workshop manual not use a split link it must be riveted ( must be due to the awesome torque of the engine ) i could only imagine what the end result would be should the split link fail ugly ugly ugly

Sprockets MUST be replaced .Repeat MUST be replaced .BOTH of them .If not they will eat your new chain in no time .
Grind the top of 2 pins. Chain will be on bike choose pins on very back of rear sprocket .Grind flat .Knock out with hammer and punch .
You will probably have to cut new chain as it will be too long .Cut on bench after fitting NEW sprockets and feeding chain on and marking .
REMEMBER . It is possible to cut it wrong ( quite easy ) There is inner and outer links .You will need to have two inners on the chain ends to accept
the outer joining link .Dont use a C clip .Use a punch to flair out the hollow joining link ends .Mark the joining link with permanent pain (let you keep an eye on it ) Mine is always marked ,i know now it good .
You will need a G-clamp and nut (to go over pins as the come through ) as you tighten the clamp .
Best get a second opinion before you cut .
I've done stacks of these and still get nervous as i'm about to cut a new chain .

I have used the c clip link on all my other bikes without issue but with with the bandit with so much torque i would be using a riveted link aswell.

I cant see any issue with using the c clip to ride to your local motorbike dealer and getting them to put a rivet in.

holdenman wrote:I cant see any issue with using the c clip to ride to your local motorbike dealer and getting them to put a rivet in.

+1. Save puting it on a trailer or ute.

I dont think they give you a clip these days .A clip works fine (most of the time ) but can tend to fly off .Well they did on my Gs 1000 .
Noticed it at night 150kls from home out bush .Put some fuse wire on link pins to get me home safley .
Hammer and punch works fine .Get some one to hold a larger hammer against BACK of link as you hit the front . Or grow a 3rd hand .

Thanks guys for all the info, bit nervous about doing the job myself.

Back to Jake for sprockets, should have asked you lot before just buying the chain.

Any tips on sprockets?

I had a C Clip on a GPz1100 a few years back. In the middle of nowhere it spat the chain out the back at 120ks, tearing out some wiring. God knows how it didn't damage anything else, lock up my wheel/smash the gearbox or smash someone behind me. Never again will I use a C clip

i`ve never used a riveting tool,only two ball pein hammers,but make sure you measure the width of the chain and don`t make the link any smaller

I support the 'Replace BOTH sprockets' philosophy.

I refute the 'Never use removable links' idea. I have ALWAYS used removable links on all my 20+ bikes, including several racing Superbikes. I have never had ANY issues. Hint - 'removable' does not equate to 'reusable'. They are great for taking the chain off quickly for cleaning etc, then replacing with a NEW link. Only a coupla bucks. I once broke a chain on a ZXR750R Superbike (on the last lap of course) fitted with a removable link - a normal link broke, not the removable one!

I don't have a removable link on this Bandit (although I did on my last one); only because with the Pro-Oiler I haven't need to clean or replace it yet.

Al Fentanyl wrote:I support the 'Replace BOTH sprockets' philosophy.

I refute the 'Never use removable links' idea. I have ALWAYS used removable links on all my 20+ bikes, including several racing Superbikes. I have never had ANY issues. Hint - 'removable' does not equate to 'reusable'. They are great for taking the chain off quickly for cleaning etc, then replacing with a NEW link. Only a coupla bucks. I once broke a chain on a ZXR750R Superbike (on the last lap of course) fitted with a removable link - a normal link broke, not the removable one!

I don't have a removable link on this Bandit (although I did on my last one); only because with the Pro-Oiler I haven't need to clean or replace it yet.

I agree with the sprockets and would have agreed on the removable link, but the one that went was new. Not worth the risk to me.

Fair enough kewwig, but I will add that installation of the clip has to include making sure the closed end of the clip is pointing in the direction of chain travel, and the clip is secured by a coat of 3-bond or similar.

C-clips will come off if you put it on the wrong way round. Pressed links are much better.

Yes I agree. Always replace the lot as a set. I've worked with chains and sprockets for years and they must be replaced as a set to get maximum life. Also. A chain needs to be run in in order the evenly stretch over the length of the entire chain or you'll have tight and loose spots. A lot of guys make the mistake of putting on a new set and then gunning the shit of the bike and wonder why the chain & sprockets don't last. I put a set on the honda and after run in I've only adjusted it once. That was years ago.