Wiring your bike for accessories

I found this link on CanyonChasers that provides a very helpful explanation on how to wire up neatly to support multiple devices like GPS, heated grips, helmet cams etc.
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php

Posted here as it may help those with less than good electrical knowledge to install a neat solution, rather than looking like Italian spaghetti wiring from the 70's. I exclude Laverda from this critique, by the way, as their wiring loom (which is in the rear of the large 8" Bosch H4 headlight) is the most elegant I have ever seen on a bike.

Thanks - quite helpful.

If you lift off the seat and look for the orange wire in the wiring loom near the battery you will find this can be used as a switching source for your acessary relay. It switches of with the ignition key.

A quite useful setup is listed for the Bandit at Eastern Beaver (no, it's not an Asian brothel). I haven't used it because I do my own electrics, but it seems a useful piece of kit: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/Bandit/bandit.html

I run a switched positive for my Stebel horn and heated grips, with the taillight wire as the switching point. I also run a 12V cigarette lighter socket, which runs via a fuse to the battery. I didn't switch that as I use it as a charger input and I'd never leave an accessory on the bike unattended anyway. The fuse protects it.

kewwig wrote:A quite useful setup is listed for the Bandit at Eastern Beaver (no, it's not an Asian brothel). I haven't used it because I do my own electrics, but it seems a useful piece of kit: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/Bandit/bandit.html

I run a switched positive for my Stebel horn and heated grips, with the taillight wire as the switching point. I also run a 12V cigarette lighter socket, which runs via a fuse to the battery. I didn't switch that as I use it as a charger input and I'd never leave an accessory on the bike unattended anyway. The fuse protects it.

My whole setup, including 2 cigarette lighter sockets and wiring for the forthcoming heated grips and 2 other accessory circuits was about $20 less than the Eastern Beaver unit. Their unit looks less complex to setup, and looks like it has the added advantage of fuses for each circuit. I put a 20A fuse on the hot wire out of the battery and it all seems OK. Ran my mobile phone and GPS into my tank bag on the weekend with no dramas.

BTW, what Stebel horn(s) are you using? I have a couple of round ones on my 1100 Guzzi Sport, which are quite loud (approx 123 db) and have been looking at options for the Bandit, given that the standard horn would not frighten a mouse.

the standard horn would not frighten a mouse.

Might if it was a small mouse

Rabid_Canine wrote:

BTW, what Stebel horn(s) are you using? I have a couple of round ones on my 1100 Guzzi Sport, which are quite loud (approx 123 db) and have been looking at options for the Bandit, given that the standard horn would not frighten a mouse.[/quote]

I use the Stebel Nautilus. http://www.stebel.it/stebel2009/products.asp?IDserie=14&uso=1&tipologia=moto It's an air horn with a small compressor attached (about the size of a small can). They put out about 139Db and are extremely loud. They are readily available on line. I have mine mounted under the upper fairing on the left. You use the horn circuit to switch a relay (too much current to run direct). A lot of people fit them and they work well on bikes. There's a chrome version as well, but I think they are best out of the weather under the fairing.

It's quite hard to photograph, but if you remove the left black fairing "inner' (the piece that Suzuki love sticking the warning label on), you will see a spare bolt hole on the front left frame downtube. Going back about 6 inches is another bolt holding a small bracket on. I use both. The way I do it is to keep the fairing on, but remove the black inner. I hold the stebel in one hand on the left hand side, and use cardboard to get the distances and angles right. I then use steel strap. One piece, shaped a bit like an "L" goes from the rearmost small bolt that holds a small bracket for cabling, and I bolt another piece to this "L" through to the bolt hole on the front down tube for additional strength. I have used this for 2 Bandits now, and the horn is mounted vertically and is fully out of the weather. Use Nylock nuts or loctite

I have attached a couple of pics that hopefully will help.

Didn't want to start a whole new thread, this one looked like it had a little bit to do with what I have been fooling around with.

Been adding additional LED lights and bits & pieces over the last couple of weeks with the bike pulled apart for most of this time. Finally had a chance to start putting things back together after fitting the pannier frames and moving the rear indicators. Decided to test the back lights after moving the connectors and tapping lines for the wiring to the luggage boxes.

Ignition on, switch left, right indicators - nothing works, but the head lights are on okay. Hmm , maybe bike needs to be started - starts okay, still no left right. Hmm , maybe the dash needs to be installed (didn't say I was finished wiring the front just yet ), plug in an rest on frame, start bike okay, but no tach or digital display. No hazzard, no horn, no stop lights.

Hmm , don't panic, too many things not working some of which I haven't touched (for a while).

Go to wiring diagram , what code is Aust, arh yes 24, follow wiring to fuse box, six of them, Signal is a 15 amp, that looks like a suspect, if only I knew where the fuse box was, can't be too hard to find, no need to look that up, out to the bike again armed with all this new knowledge. Nope not under the seat, left panel ? right panel ? can't see anything that looks like a fuse panel .

Back to the manual , fuse panel part #20 and it is hiding behind the left panel (knew it had to be there somewhere). Undo the panel again, how are you suppose to get to that ? Lets just take this 10mm bolt out and move the whole lot out in the open for a better access.

Open the lid, six fuses as promised - even labeled. Take out fuse #5 (suppose to be 15 amp but its a 10 amp, I am not surprised the wrong one is in there). Yep she's blown, replace with the correct size, and also put the spare 10 amp and 15 amp into the holder as well, just in case I'm caught out away from home (and still have the 10mm spanner to undo the bolt). I must have shorted an indicator when moving the wiring.

All back together, start her up, dash, horn, stop, left and right all okay .

Good trap for new (and old) players - well kept me amused for the afternoon

You might find this set-up interesting - note I have not tried it just found this link.
www.screaming-banshee.com

http://screaming-banshee.com/how-to-install

Barry i blew a fuse and had the same problem . " where ARE they ? "
I was going to ask the forum but decided that was way too
Of cause i had every manual handy but the suzuki one ,they look a bit of an after thought dont they .

I can vouch for the Stebil Nautilus compact horn at 139dB. Had to use it in anger yesterday ... 3 second burst.
It's like flipping someone the bird.... but an audible version.
Oh yeah, they take notice too. Makes a bike sound much larger than it is.