Remote Master Cylinder Q

Resulting from an exchange on THIS thread. Can someone explain why and how remote master cylinders appear to work better than regular MC. How can this be?
I'm open and hoping to be ejumacated much goodly.

2wheelsagain wrote:I'm open and hoping to be ejumacated much goodly.

I had to read that twice to make sure it wasn't something rude

Re-Cycled wrote:

2wheelsagain wrote:I'm open and hoping to be ejumacated much goodly.

I had to read that twice to make sure it wasn't something rude

Oh yes Peter I see your point.

Are you talking a remote master cyl or a radial master cyl as they are two different things.

dhula wrote:Are you talking a remote master cyl or a radial master cyl as they are two different things.

For the sake of education, both mate

Well I have had a bit of a poke around and found a radial MC explanation HERE but as I understand it it makes about as much sense to real world road riding/touring as forking out (pun intended) for USD forks.

I reckon I figured out what a remote set up is and we don't use them on bikes.

Well actually remote master cylinders were used on BMW's, the R100RS from memory, (or maybe the R90S or both, it was a while ago), but it was crap 'cos of the additional 'give' in the system due to the cable running from the lever to the remote cylinder.

Dekenai wrote:Well actually remote master cylinders were used on BMW's, the R100RS from memory

Yeah and a couple of others too I think. I should have said we don't use them on current (or recent) bikes

My Guzzi 1100 Sport has a remote reservoir.
The only advantage is removing it from the clip-ons so it doesn't foul up any of the (limited) potential adjustability.
As for the system, with any hydralic brakes it's quite simple - once you squeeze the lever the the piston closes, and it compresses the fluid downstream of the piston, and exerts pressure on the brake pads to clamp the disc. It's not particularly complicated and I think its really about locating the reservoirs away from the usual damage points, and maybe centering the mass closer to the pivot point of the head stem.

On standard (axial) master cylinders the axis in which you apply effort is at right angles (or thereabouts) to the lever pressure - you pull on the lever and it actually applies that force sideways onto the piston to apply the hydraulic force.
One a radial you pull on the lever and the force is applied on the same axis. Because of their design they pretty much have to have remote reservoirs.
So there will also be a little more lost energy that disappears through mechanically translating the effort from one direction to 90 degrees away, compared to the radial unit where all energy is applied in the same direction.
But do you really notice this difference in lost energy in normal road riding? Well I haven't. Others may well have differing opinions.

Dunno about the radial units, but servicing the axial ones is close to dead easy it ain't funny (as long as you have a new seal kit in your hot little hands). Ten minutes on the bench, a quick re-bleed and you're ready to chuck stoppies to your heart's content.......

Personally, having used both types I think it is marketing hype mostly. A new axial Brembo master cylinder can be had for about $125 US, complete with reservoir. A new forged radial is $265 and a new billet radial is $329. And then about another $20 for the remote reservoir. Do I think the radial units are worth the extra $$$ for road use - No!
But if you want to have the latest and shiniest, and you have the bucks, go for it, it can't be worse than the axial.
It will still stop like a mo-fo.