Anyone using FI tuner pro?

First topic message reminder :

At this stage my Bandit's mod is only a Yoshi 77 slip on.
With 18K service, will be installing K&N air filter.

I am reading that that above combo could result in a lean fuel mix.

So.... options are... leave it as it is, or install FI tuner pro or similar.

FI tuner pro is the cheapest option. Anyone has used / installed this?
Can't find any reviews online.

Cheers
Andy

step_andy wrote:Happy to report that all is still good.
On 2nd tank, I did most of my riding in CBD with stop, stop, go - plus a fair bit of two up. This time round I managed about 6.2L per 100 km.
On 3rd, I was back to regular 50/50 street highway combo and this time it was 5.4L per 100 (last bar started to flash at 215)

Overall, I am very happy with FI tuner. Performance is up and fuel consumption is down.
Win win to me.

Cheers from America!

After reading your thread and how-to, I decided to follow your lead and buy the fi-tuner pro. Just recieved and planning to install AFTER my dealer installes the regulator next week. I have not found many people running this on a 1250 yet, and the "pureists" tent to gravitate to Dale and nothing other.

Just wanted to say- thanks for your hard work and sharing

08k8

Hope you are still happy with the FI Tuner Pro - just a quick question - did you have to disable / bypass the oxygen sensor and if so how is that done ?

Yes- this is done by disconnecting a wire from the main ECU. Pin #23 on the small connector..

I have not yet installed my tuner yet, but it is in queue

Thanks - sounds like you would get a FI light by removing a wire from the ECU but I guess the FI Tuner Pro avoids that somehow.

Nothing is ever simple.
I was under impression that my Bandit was O2 sensor free, but it isn't the case.
Thanks to 08k8 who pointed out where to look and Bingo! There it was!

Back to mods... will have to disconnect the pin

No you don't need to disable the O2 sensor from what I know.

Not to say you can't install a O2 bypass/eliminator tho. There are a few out there and most work pretty well but I have read that some of the units while cause a Fi light and DTC when sitting on steady RPMS after a while.

It Fi tuner works with the ECU to adjust fuel loading across the range and is not a "add on" box like PC and TFI where you need to disable the O2 sensor or the ECU will try to bring back the fuel to satisfy the maps in the ECU

Pulling wire #23 from the ECU will be like disconnecting the O2 sensor at the little plug under the left hand side cover (easier to disconnect the plug IMO) and will throw a Fi light and store a DTC.

I emailed Healtech to ask about the O2 sensor and if it has to be disabled and got this reply;

"That is right, the O2 sensor must be disabled.

This procedure is very simple, it is described in the FIT install guide.

Kind Regards,
/Norbert
healtech-electronics.com"

Looks like if you don't disable the O2 sensor it will feed back the changed A/F ratio and the ECU will then adjust back to factory settings. I'm guessing that because the FI Tuner plugs into the ECU it somehow tells the ECU not to give a fault light and throw an error code.

Kind of makes me wonder why there is an O2 sensor in the first place if you can disable it without seemingly any effect.

I'm doing a bit more research into this as I'm trying to understand how the Fi tuner works and what it does.
The disabling of the O2 sensor has me a bit baffled but if Healtech say it needs to be done then perhaps my initial understanding of how it works is way off. No biggy I'll just need to do a bit more looking into it so I can understand what it does.

The pin 23 on the small connector has me thrown a bit.
Smoozuki number the ECU pins 1 - 60 and don't differentiate between the small and large connector in the service manual.
08K8 can you give a bit more info as to which pin they are talking about along the lines of "on the small connector it is the # pin from the right/left on the top/bottom row and the colour of the wire is ________"

I'd be interested to find out a bit more too.

Like you dhula I was under the impression that the O2 sensor stayed connected basically because the FI Tuner plugs into the ECU it was virtually like reflashing the ECU with the new fuel values.

If the O2 sensor stayed connected I looked at that as a big plus since the tune would stay spot on regardless of altitude, temperature etc. With the 02 sensor disconnected I feel it's virtually just a fancy, expensive, complicated carburettor since the mixture will not respond to changing conditions like going from sea level to mountain tops.

Admittedly the EFI will still respond to cold/hot starts etc without the O2 sensor so to that extent it's better than carbs.

My question:
Will cutting this wire (to bypass the O2) cause the FI warning light to turn on? This matters because of how the government in my state checks for inspection.

Also- by not allowing the ECU to see the O2 sensor, it will only run at the map in the FITuner, without subtle changes to maintain 14.7:1 correct? This is why I will have more power, but maybe a little more pollution correct? If I'm wrong, can you explain?

The response:
The FI light will not turn on.
Basically, the purpose of this wire is to disable the O2 sensor, but this is
an undocumented feature.

That's correct, you gain more power, response and drivability as the AFR
won't be leaned out.

*** I asked just a moment ago about the bike not having good driveability at sea level vs mountain tops. As soon as I have a reply I will post it.***

Without the o2 sensor it will behave like a carb engine when it comes to fuel compensation due to alt, temps, air pressures etc. It will have some compensation due to the other sensors around the engine but not full like it would with the o2 sensor working.
For me this is a bit of a drawback and doesn't make the unit any better than the PC/TFI etc boxes out there when it comes to what it does.
Admittedly it does have some good points over the other systems like price and ease of fitting but one big drawback at the moment is the lack of knowledge of the setup out there due to low numbers in use so far..

The removal of pin #23 (pin #40 and wire colour of white with black tracer if you have your own manual) without throwing a Fi light confuses me a little as a quick scan of the manual appears this the the signal wire to the ECU to tell it the o2 sensor heater is on. This is the circuit the other systems "fool" with the resistor so the light doesn't come on. Research continues for me as I want to understand more and make sure I've got it right

First- I really enjoy this discussion. Since many of us are new to fuel injection and making changes to it, it helps to have others out there who are willing to discuss and educate.

The Question to HealTech:
Will the disabled O2 sensor cause poor performance when for example you drive from sea level up into mountain tops? The fear is that disconnecting does not allow the bike to adjust as it should.

The Response:
The factory O2 sensor has a very limited range (not a wideband sensor) so it
does not have a big role in fuel management anyway, just leans out the
mixture at small loads.

FI bikes are equipped with Air Pressure Sensor, this is how the ECM can
compensate e.g. for altitude and weather changes.

You won't lose anything by disconnecting the O2 sensor really


Healtech shared with me a document detailing how to remove the wire from the harness. (PM me if you want a copy) This way- you can put it back if you are not satisfied. In fact, the two wiring harnesses un plug from the FITuner unit if you want to remove it and revert to the stock map. I plan to experiment and start slowly. I really want to understand if there is a WOW at some point.

Right now, I'm finishing up cosmetic things and I cannot start with the Tuner. I will report back in a couple of weeks once things settle down.

Encouraging reply from Healtech. I would like a copy of the document you mentioned and will PM you once I discover how to send one.

Ahh...sorted, PM sent.

Hi Andy - just wondering if you disconnected the connector for the O2 sensor and if you are still happy with the FI Tuner Pro.

Not yet ... too much on my plate at the moment

Fair enough - I know that feeling.

Drop Dale Walker @ Holeshot a line.

He's really helpful & with his setup, it's install & forget.

http://www.holeshot.com/

There are quite a few of us on here who have used the TFI with Dales settings.................. it's really brings the Bandit to life.

I was running with a April RSV4 yesterday...............& it didn't walk awayfrom me on any of the long pulls!

Hi Everyone,
I have a FI Tuner Pro fitted to my F. Installation was dead easy. I solder and heatshrink all my connections and retape it all up so it maintains that factory look. The Tuner won't give you a massive tyre smoking / chain snapping power boost. What it did give me was a solution to the surging the bike had at very light throttle / suburban street speeds. It now rides super smooth with no abrupt on/off throttle jerkyness the stock system had. I have yet to run it down the quarter to see the difference there. I'm using the maps Norbert sent me. It actually is alot smoother at part throttle than my stock FA. I like it and one will be finding its way to the FA soon.

I clipped the wire as stated in the installation instructions to disable the O2 sensor. Everything was postitive by all accounts. The bike is quite smooth and runs great!

I'm bone stock with K&N and Delkevic slip on. ATRE set @ 6th gear.

All in all- I'm very happy. This is a super simple install and like holeshot, you get great support from HealTech. Norbert is a great guy and will help you in every way he can!

Cheers!
Peter

Just curious- I am planning on removing my secondary butterflies and drilling the hole in my airbox as recomended. Has anybody done this with the Fi Tuner Pro yet? Did you find any need to make changes if so?

I've just received an email from Norbert from Healtech about the secondary butterflies.
I asked if there was a software mod avail to electronically hold the valves open rather than take to them with heat and a screwdriver.
His reply was that it was not recommended (to remove these items) and that if you are running an X-TRE, this alters the rate of which the butterflies behave anyways.
I'm leaving mine in but am looking at the airbox lid mod thing and opening up the original port only to take up the whole edge. Well that's the plan at this stage. I feel that the 650 won't see much benefit from a larger airbox intake but the 1250 does.
Also for those running the 650, the standard fuel map is pretty good but needs a tweak here and there. Norbert said peak HP won't change that much but the improvement is in the low to mid range - which is where I spend most of my time anyway and where I have noticed a large improvement to rideability and smoothness - particularly at sustained low speed like 40-50-60km/h.
The proof will be when its all dyno tuned hopefully if the money gods smile at me will be before the end of this month. I will post up once done.

I've heard the same from Norbert- he is a great guy and very patient. He did tell me though that the reason for his advice is that this is the only tested configuration they support- so they have not created a map for a bike without butterflies installed.

Just curious - but what ATRE setting are you using? I started out with the unit set @ 6, but have been advised on maxsuzuki that 4 is the best setting. Mabye its mind trickery, but I set it to 4 this morning and was able to power wheelie much easier.

Any thoughts or dyno work out there?

Hi guys..

I'm trying to install Healtech FIT-Pro, and I'm in trouble.. Manual says that I should fully cut-off wire on pin #23 (supposedly HO2Sensor).. I've checked FI System Wiring Diagram and there is that pin #23 is for Gear Position... but HO2S works on pin #12. What's gooing on? Healtech is trying to cheat me, or manual is wrong?

Regards

Daniel

daniel.wro wrote:Hi guys..

I'm trying to install Healtech FIT-Pro, and I'm in trouble.. Manual says that I should fully cut-off wire on pin #23 (supposedly HO2Sensor).. I've checked FI System Wiring Diagram and there is that pin #23 is for Gear Position... but HO2S works on pin #12. What's gooing on? Healtech is trying to cheat me, or manual is wrong?

Regards

Daniel

Hi Daniel,
I don't think that Healtech is trying to cheat you. It is more likely that wiring could be different on your bike v manual, which I believe is just a generic one.
Email them with your concerns and from my experience, you should have an answer in a day or two.

Cheers

I agree with StepAndy. I actually sent in a picture of the wiring diagram and the pin that I thought I should cut. I attached a photo of the confirmed pin by Healtech.

I've had this wire cut for 3 months now without any issue.

I also bought healtech's OBD system. Although I have not re-attached this wire to see what happens, my O2 signal is steady @ a constant voltage, tricking the computer to think that the ratio is 14.7:1 This way the computer does not try to lean out the additional fueling.