Anyone using FI tuner pro?

First topic message reminder :

At this stage my Bandit's mod is only a Yoshi 77 slip on.
With 18K service, will be installing K&N air filter.

I am reading that that above combo could result in a lean fuel mix.

So.... options are... leave it as it is, or install FI tuner pro or similar.

FI tuner pro is the cheapest option. Anyone has used / installed this?
Can't find any reviews online.

Cheers
Andy

No Gus. I haven't had to. Since I've install the tuner there is no backfiring.

Backfiring on downshift under load ??

Yes. It was. But not now. My honda 900 did it as well straight after I put a Transac 4into1 exhaust on it. Although, the 900 had shutoff diaphragms in the carbies to shut off all fuel supply on the downshift. Mine were stuffed though. After a long discussion with Dynojet, they explained why I was getting the backfire, or popping in the exhaust whenever I downshifted. After throwing the muffler away as suggested,(because the outlet hole was 5/8"( i built my own) ), installing much bigger jets, tearing out the original airbox and fitting air pods, I got much more power and much better fuel economy without the backfiring.

I'd still be blocking the pair system seeing as its so easy and no cost .

Yeah , I probably will end up doing that. There's actually a kit you can buy for about $80 that blocks it of and it still looks original.

Save $79.95 and just put a rubber bung in the line .

TPO does one for about $30
Even heard of people using ear plugs and electrical tape

I plugged my pair with a rubber stopper- worked great. No popping, takes only 15 minutes.

I bought the Metric Metal kit for $60USD, Honestly, you can buy the same thing on ebay for $20. This just removes the PAIR components from the top of the valve cover.

SO did the wire trick work??

Yesterday I bought a removal kit from TPO for $30 sent to my door from the us. Someone was selling one with a resistor that takes the place of the soleniod for about $80

When I got mine I asked for a resistor to "trick" the ECU into thinking the PAIR valve was still in place. They popped it in the bag for free but did say if I didn't ask for it I wouldn't have got it.
Can't remember the part number or size tho, sorry

08k8 wrote:Ahh I think I found your issue!

In Healtech's instructions, for the bandit, they list "Lambda Control Wire" as "Small Connector Pin#23, Black/White"

In the service manual, as you have pointed out, the numbering beings on the large connector. I also pointed this out to Healtech.

Disconnect the battery, Remove the small connector. ON THE FACE OF THE CONNECTOR, you will see numbers- this is the number they are referring to. The photo I posted earlier today shows this. I also sent in a picture of my connector and Norbert confirms that this is the correct wire to cut.

I also TRIED to remove the connector from the assembly.... Just cut the wire far enough back where you could repair if desired.

Again- no regrets here in the US with this wire cut. Pro'lly have 1000mi on this set-up.

I just noticed this thread.

Edit: I made some measurements: With pin 23 disconnected,Pin 12 on the large connector gets pulled high,disabling the lambda sensor input.

The above answer does not make sense.Possibly the Healtech installation instructions may be in error regarding the lambda sensor.If it is still connected because of this possible error the ECM may be overiding the FI Tuner's map.

I have sent the following email to Norbert for more clarification:

Hi Norbert

Can you clarify some confusion I have with the installation instructions.
I think you may have been contacted regarding this issue,by other customers,before.

I have had a FIT-S01 on my GSF 1250 SA K9 for about a month and it seems to be running ok.I have a Scorpion slip on and a standard air filter with an airbox with an enlarged intake.Fuel consumption has increased from about 5.5 l/100 km to about 6.0 l/100 km.
I have just seen on an Australian Bandit forum (https://nswbandits.forumotion.net/t963p45-anyone-using-fi-tuner-pro)(page 4) that there is some confusion regarding Healtech's instruction to remove the lambda sensor wire to the ECM.
Healtech calls for wire number 23 on the small connector (black/white stripe) to be disconnected.
The Suzuki service manual numbers the small connector differently to the numbering on the actual connector.Pin 23 corresponds to pin 57 in the Suzuki manual.Pin 57 is not labelled with any function.The Black/White stripe colour code implies it is a ground wire.

The Suzuki manual lists the HO2 sensor signal as being pin 12 on the large connector and the HO2 heater wire is pin 6 on the small connector - or pin 40 in the Suzuki manual's numbering system.

The manual seems to be correct for all the wire assignments.

Your clarification would be much appreciated.


Kind Regards

I am seriously considering rejoining the black/white wire and cutting the white/green wire on pin 12, and I'll tell you why. If I run a zero map my fuel economy is perfect. BUT. I'm noticing a green puddle under the bike which tells me that it's running too lean. That's on one day. On another day, still running a zero map, my fuel economy is crap. This is running at 40% throttle, at 3,500-4000 rpm at 110kph. I still have a glowing muffler.
When I run the bike with the laptop hooked up, only the cells that are in 0 throttle position that correspond to the current rpm light up. Even though the screen shows the correct throttle calibration. So something is just not right.

I was interested in one of thesebut i have decided to go with dale walkers tfi.Plenty of very happy customers and he has spent a lot of time getting it right. Just waiting on a response with a postage cost

holdenman wrote:I was interested in one of thesebut i have decided to go with dale walkers tfi.Plenty of very happy customers and he has spent a lot of time getting it right. Just waiting on a response with a postage cost

I have dales setup and am very very happy with it. Dale is always available to give advise too.

Kaupy1962 wrote: I am seriously considering rejoining the black/white wire and cutting the white/green wire on pin 12, and I'll tell you why. If I run a zero map my fuel economy is perfect. BUT. I'm noticing a green puddle under the bike which tells me that it's running too lean. That's on one day. On another day, still running a zero map, my fuel economy is crap. This is running at 40% throttle, at 3,500-4000 rpm at 110kph. I still have a glowing muffler.
When I run the bike with the laptop hooked up, only the cells that are in 0 throttle position that correspond to the current rpm light up. Even though the screen shows the correct throttle calibration. So something is just not right.

I'm confident that pin 23 on the small connector is correct.It is a "control" connection for the lambda sensor.
I disconnected it and reconnected it several times while monitoring the lambda sensor voltage on pin 12 of the large connector.
Connected,the voltage is obviously following the lambda sensor output.Disconnected it stays at just below 5 volts.

Here's Norbert's reply to my questions:


In short, forget the Suzuki manual and do the steps described in the FIT instructions.

The wire we instruct to cut is not documented in the Suzuki manual, it's a secret way to force the ECU to ignore the lambda sensor.
After cutting this wire, you can then remove the lambda sensor if you wish, it won't induce an FI error.

Feel free to post this information on the forum and let me know if you have any further questions.
And:

Yes, pin #23 is the lambda CONTROL wire, which is not documented in the Suzuki manual.

Hey Holdenman, I sure you will be happy with Dale Walkers kit. Did the Stage 2 mods on my GSX 1250FA , Cost $375 delivered. If you need any help installing just PM me and i will try to help.

Instead of cutting wires, why not buy one of these or similar.
I've got 2 sitting in the shed not being used, if someone wants them, come and get them

I'm with Dhula. I would hate cutting wires.

Kaupy1962 wrote: I am seriously considering rejoining the black/white wire and cutting the white/green wire on pin 12, and I'll tell you why. If I run a zero map my fuel economy is perfect. BUT. I'm noticing a green puddle under the bike which tells me that it's running too lean. That's on one day. On another day, still running a zero map, my fuel economy is crap. This is running at 40% throttle, at 3,500-4000 rpm at 110kph. I still have a glowing muffler.
When I run the bike with the laptop hooked up, only the cells that are in 0 throttle position that correspond to the current rpm light up. Even though the screen shows the correct throttle calibration. So something is just not right.

That sounds like you have a problem.
With the laptop connected the highlighted cell should correspond to the rpm and tacho reading of the engine.
I.E. as you blip the throttle the highlighted cell should move all over the graph.

I would check your TPS and tacho wire connections for the FI Tuner at the ECM plug.

I have. Both are reading as they should. Everything is normal except that the highlighted cell doesn't follow the TPS. It just stays in the 0% column. On the right side of the screen, the TPS reads as normal.

Hey duhla. I would really like to get one of those plugs but I'm in VIC

Thanks dhula for EBay link .. much as I would have liked to have one of your 'freebies' I am in South Australia .. so I have paid to get one - I hope it is clear exactly where I will need to plug it (!! ) or else I will be dredging through threads on this forum for info. I will undoubtedly find it is self-evident if I just re-read THIS thread .. so ignore my late night dribble.

Snip Snip! fear not guys- just cut the wire!

I bought the OBD system from Healtech. Just like you, I was really worried about cutting that wire... Once I did, the O2 sensor signal went to a steady valuve- .5v I think. I've had my bike configured this way for 4 months now and no issues to report.

If you look @ the wiring diagram, this black/ white wire is actually a ground. It is an input to the ECM, and when taken away, it does not trim the fuel map with the O2 signal.

BTW- I have an Air Fuel Ratio AFR meter with data logging. (just borrowed from a buddy). I'm going to collect some info on my bike with the wire cut- I will share when available.

If you take off the LH side cover you will have access the the GP sensor plug (3 pin triangular plug, has a pink wire in there), the speedo plug (3 pin flat, black in colour IIRC)and the o2 sensor plug (the only one that is left but IIRC is white in colour and 4 pin square shape)
Disconnect this plug, tape of the sensor end to protect it from dirt and crap and plug the eliminator into the other end (it will only fit one way)

Is the plug a green one? Coz that's what my o2 sensor has got on it. A three wire green plug.