buzzy.....

A few months ago I did some work on my 06 1200s... i.e. put the Dale Walker Holeshot stage II kit on it....

While I was at it, I took off the TPS from the carbies cos it was easier to do so BEFORE i saw that suzuki advised against that.... oops....

Now my bike is rather buzzier than it used to be... any tips on correcting this... is it as easy as loosening the thing a little.. i.e. enough so I can hand-adjust it without it falling off? My plan is to do this... go for a short ride and adjust as I go until it feels better.

Does this sound reasonable?

Thanks....

TPS set up...

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?PHPSESSID=b0i4597f4q7e2hat98f7rn11k0&topic=3447.0

mtbeerwah wrote:TPS set up...

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?PHPSESSID=b0i4597f4q7e2hat98f7rn11k0&topic=3447.0

thanks.

Gee, slightly more complicated than I thought....

stu wrote:

mtbeerwah wrote:TPS set up...

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?PHPSESSID=b0i4597f4q7e2hat98f7rn11k0&topic=3447.0

thanks.

Gee, slightly more complicated than I thought....

its not as complicated as it sounds or reads.

if you got an ohms meter, take the reading at full throttle, to get your base reading, do your maths, divide by 100, than multiply that reading by 76, and turn the TPS till it gives you the figure at 76, and that's it,

obviously taking the readings from the appropriate pins on the plug, as per the diagram, there`s only three so pretty easy

mtbeerwah wrote:

stu wrote:

mtbeerwah wrote:TPS set up...

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?PHPSESSID=b0i4597f4q7e2hat98f7rn11k0&topic=3447.0

thanks.

Gee, slightly more complicated than I thought....

its not as complicated as it sounds or reads.

if you got an ohms meter, take the reading at full throttle, to get your base reading, do your maths, divide by 100, than multiply that reading by 76, and turn the TPS till it gives you the figure at 76, and that's it,

obviously taking the readings from the appropriate pins on the plug, as per the diagram, there`s only three so pretty easy

cool.
I guess I'd better reread when I'm not on the christmas champagne

Was hoping to be able to do without tools, but ok.

"Full throttle" sounds a bit loud though....

NO NO...

Engine off!!!!!!!!!!!!!

mtbeerwah wrote:NO NO...

Engine off!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hahahHA

Def glad I'm not working on it now then    

mtbeerwah wrote:

stu wrote:

mtbeerwah wrote:TPS set up...

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?PHPSESSID=b0i4597f4q7e2hat98f7rn11k0&topic=3447.0

thanks.

Gee, slightly more complicated than I thought....

its not as complicated as it sounds or reads.

if you got an ohms meter, take the reading at full throttle, to get your base reading, do your maths, divide by 100, than multiply that reading by 76, and turn the TPS till it gives you the figure at 76, and that's it,

obviously taking the readings from the appropriate pins on the plug, as per the diagram, there`s only three so pretty easy

so here goes nothing:

ohm 1 reading (2 outer pegs) 528 ohm
of ohm 2 reading (2 external pegs) is meant to be 76% of that, should be 401 ohm, but is instead 361 I need to adjust. Correct?

What difference does it actually (physically) make?

what difference does it make you ask?

well...this is the laugh factor for "me"

when I first decided to check mine many moons ago, after reading how "some people" checked and corrected theirs , it was like the second coming of the good lord!!

I checked mine as per specs to see first of all, that the unit was alright, and second that it was set correctly.

To my discovery, my TPS was f*&^^d, and did not register at all. I already had a second set of carbs, and checked the TPS on that, and it worked, and was with in specs, so I set it up spot on at 76*, and it made absolutely no difference at all.

So I said to myself, there you go hey.

But you have said quiet clearly that yours is different after removing, so if I were you, I would set it up exactly per manual at 76*, then you know it is correct, and to have a proper first hand opinion on how its (the bike)character is, for better or worse.

mtbeerwah wrote:what difference does it make you ask?

well...this is the laugh factor for "me"

when I first decided to check mine many moons ago, after reading how "some people" checked and corrected theirs , it was like the second coming of the good lord!!

I checked mine as per specs to see first of all, that the unit was alright, and second that it was set correctly.

To my discovery, my TPS was f*&^^d, and did not register at all. I already had a second set of carbs, and checked the TPS on that, and it worked, and was with in specs, so I set it up spot on at 76*, and it made absolutely no difference at all.

So I said to myself, there you go hey.

But you have said quiet clearly that yours is different after removing, so if I were you, I would set it up exactly per manual at 76*, then you know it is correct, and to have a proper first hand opinion on how its (the bike)character is, for better or worse.

funny how these things go...

Well yep set mine up to about 75.6% ish. Def less buzzzy although there is still a little at around 4000rpm, but that's "normal", right? :0

fairing accounts for 99.9999 percent of buzzing on a Bandit anyway, so until you fix that pain in the arse part of a Bandit, then you`ll always have buzzing, and by nature, the engine is a bit like that, so don`t worry too much.

As long as you`ve set it up right, and it sounds as if you have, all good.

mtbeerwah wrote:fairing accounts for 99.9999 percent of buzzing on a Bandit anyway, so until you fix that pain in the arse part of a Bandit, then you`ll always have buzzing, and by nature, the engine is a bit like that, so don`t worry too much.

As long as you`ve set it up right, and it sounds as if you have, all good.

what fairing !!   

Thanks for your assistance  

ahh...one of those hey.. I`d say your bikes stuffed and you must sell it now     

Yesterday the bike and I didn't seem to see eye to eye.... not sure what it was, but the thing seemed way more vibratey than usual... maybe the fact that I forgot to put my earplugs made it seem so... I don't know. I felt like dropping it off a cliff after a couple hundred ks of that.

Today I had a thought though. Don't know how accurate it may be... but.... I put a Holeshot Stage II kit on the bike, and I remembered this morning that it specifically said that it worked better at higher revs....

Around 3800 revs the engine seems to be at its buzz peak (and some days it seems worse than others???   )  I often ride around at this point.

Today I tried riding in one lower gear than usual... at just below 5000rpm the engine is feeling and sounding like this: purr purr purr, and it only gets better the higher they go....   

Fuel economy doesn't seem to suffer either....

I don`t know which stage two you have!

define stage two?  pods or total open air box?

the 3800rpm is normal on the oil 1200`s

not having ridden stage 2 on a "1200", I can`t comment. I have one waiting for me at Post office when I get back to Gladstone, and will be going on my new engine , so will have a different characteristic to yours, It is total open airbox, not pods?

your stage 2 will have a different character to the standard factory jet, so I`m half thinking it won`t be as smooth as standard.

I think Ross had pods, so if he reads this, or anyone on here that had a 1200 with stage 2, will have the first hand knowledge on how it is to live with.

mtbeerwah wrote:didn`t know you had stage two!

define stage two?  pods or total open air box?

the 3800rpm is normal on the oil 1200`s

not having ridden stage 2 on a "1200", I can`t comment. I have one waiting for me at Post office when I get back to Gladstone, and will be going on my new engine , so will have a different characteristic to yours, It is total open airbox, not pods?

your stage 2 will have a different character to the standard factory jet, so I`m half thinking it won`t be as smooth as standard.

I think Ross had pods, so if he reads this, or anyone on here that had a 1200 with stage 2, will have the first hand knowledge on how it is to live with.

yeah I bought the bike end of May... put the kit on just over three months later... think I wrote a thread on it somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

Main reason I did so was because checking / cleaning the air filter was just stupidly difficult, what with that big air box accessed by taking off the tank THEN swearing a lot cos it was very fiddly... also because I couldn't help myself...   

as well as more power <cough> think: main jets went from just over 100 to 150!! Yes, it makes QUITE a difference, especially when you are overta-ohpassedalreadyholycrap...   

Oh yes, here's the thread with nice pics. NO MORE AIRBOX.   

https://nswbandits.forumotion.net/t4067-holeshot-stage-2-jeeeettttt-kit

And just let me say one more time: OH YEAH              

(EDIT: this is the link to Dale's website for the 1200 stage 2, getting rid of the air box altogether: http://www.holeshot.com/bandit/bndt_b12_stage2.shtml  )

It is quite a bit different from the 1250 stage 2, I think.

mtbeerwah wrote:I don`t know which stage two you have!

define stage two?  pods or total open air box?

the 3800rpm is normal on the oil 1200`s

not having ridden stage 2 on a "1200", I can`t comment. I have one waiting for me at Post office when I get back to Gladstone, and will be going on my new engine , so will have a different characteristic to yours, It is total open airbox, not pods?

your stage 2 will have a different character to the standard factory jet, so I`m half thinking it won`t be as smooth as standard.

I think Ross had pods, so if he reads this, or anyone on here that had a 1200 with stage 2, will have the first hand knowledge on how it is to live with.

This webpage might excite you....:   

http://www.holeshot.com/dynocharts/dyno_bandit1250.html

my 1250 makes a buzz in the clocks/ front fairing area around 3500rpm-ish.. I found 2 ways of avoiding.. revs below 3000 or above 4000

would be nice to be buzz free tho