Stripped drain hole in oil pan

Well here is how to stuff up a nice easy service.. Bike - 2008 Bandit 1250S
I changed the oil today, tightened up the drain bolt and continued the service. I was browsing through the service manual and noticed that there is a torque setting for the drain bolt, so I went back to the already installed bolt to set the correct torque.. BAD move, I stripped the thread out of the oil pan..

So, I guess here are my options.
- Replace oil pan.
- Tap a new thread.
- Weld up the hole and re-tap somewhere else.
- Try to find a second-hand pan.

Surely other Bandit owners have had a similar brain-fart moment with the drain bolt, so hoping for some advice (taunting and mocking is also expected:tongue: ).

Can't help I'm afraid - I've changed the oil a couple of times but not had the misfortune to strip the thread.  

PS: why don't they make the bolt softer than the pan so that it strips instead - it would be much easier and cheaper to replace.

You can have a helicoil fitted ........................basically replaces the thread with a stronger one / your local mechanic - bike shop should be able to point you in the right direction if you don't know anyone 


https://www.google.com.au/#q=helicoil

I'd tap a new larger thread and find a bolt to suit.

Cheapest option.

Either way you go your going to need to remove the pan to ensure there is no left over swarf inside

I did it on my Aprilia but the tread size was small compared to the bandit . I heli coiled it ,
by covering the tap with grease so to catch the alloy ,then flushed with the old oil .

gus wrote:I did it on my Aprilia but the tread size was small compared to the bandit . I heli coiled it ,
by covering the tap with grease so to catch the alloy ,then flushed with the old oil .

That's how they did my lads

I wouldn't be trusting that, I'd want to see myself that its all gone. But that's just me

paranoid as I am, I`d take the pan off, then tap an over sized hole

Unfortunately that's a problem when using correct torque values. Steel thread into alloy thread even at the correct torque setting, stresses the thread in the alloy. Always tighten sump plugs by hand and get the feeling when to stop. There's an insert available that's better than a helicoil. It's 1 piece so there's no chance of it tearing apart the next time you undo the plug. I might even have one in the shed. I will pm you if I have,

Thanks for the feedback guys, (and lack of ribbing, which is deserved).
I'm still kicking myself as I'd already done the plug up and was happy with it and I've done this a number of times without using the torque wrench, well too late now just gotta build that bridge.

I removed the oil pan last night, it only took me 3 beers. I was a bit daunted about pulling the whole exhaust system out but it wasn't too bad in the end, it's pretty compact and I've just about always kept my bike under cover and I've only done about 50,000 km.
The only advise I'd offer is to make sure you un-plug and take the H2-0 sensor wiring loom from where it's cable tied and tucked in on the frame, it's an expensive part and could easily be damaged if the exhaust was just dropped down.
I'll post some pics of the damaged pan later this arvo.

After looking at the damage I can understand why Kaupy suggests the 1 piece insert, the original design is not great.

I priced a new pan today and it's around $225, not sure if I'd even go with a second hand pan.

I also contacted a local Thread repair specialist who said a re-thread would probably cost around $90, maybe a bit cheaper if I bring in the pan.

etal_BoB

I also contacted a local Thread repair specialist who said a re-thread would probably cost around $90, maybe a bit cheaper if I bring in the pan.

And a tap and an oversize plug would cost you $20

If your not liking that idea then I'd go timesert not helicoil. Timesert threads have a small flange on the outside that will stop the insert going into the sump.


something like this, of course you will need to find the right size to suit.

madmax wrote:etal_BoB

I also contacted a local Thread repair specialist who said a re-thread would probably cost around $90, maybe a bit cheaper if I bring in the pan.

And a tap and an oversize plug would cost you $20

If your not liking that idea then I'd go timesert not helicoil. Timesert threads have a small flange on the outside that will stop the insert going into the sump.


something like this, of course you will need to find the right size to suit.

That's the one! Sorry got held up today. will check in the morning. I'm guessing the sump plug thread is M14x1.5 ?

Ever since I did the same thing many years ago, I've always cross drilled  my sump bolts, used a bit of ptfe tape on the threads to create a seal, then lock wired to stop unwinding through vibration. Never had a problem since.