Dyno results

Motogarage in Canberra held a dyno day for the ducati club today, but they had a few spots spare, so I thought I'd go along with the 06 bandy.

Despite being, shall we say, a little lower than the mighty 1198s i was still happy with the 122hp that my bike put out. Max power or close to it comes along very happily between 7000 and 10500rpm. It's a great engine for that.

I was very pleased, and perhaps a little surprised though, to see it top out at 298km/h.... hahaHA oh fucking yeah. Faster than a few Ducatis with more power...

only mods as far as I know are the Delkevic exhaust.... it's small.... I thought it was loud, but compared to the modified Diavel there, it was kitten quiet...

The engine is running lean under 6000rpm, very lean in fact, so it looks like my plans to rejet it will be brought forward a little. Looking to put on the holeshoot stage II jet kit and 5 degree timing advancer as a start. 

I know this will make some positive difference, wondering how much.

Wondering if it's not inconceivable that I might be able to get 140-150hp from the bandit.... thoughts?

Anybody put on a new header?

cams...flow/port heads...CC`s increase...compression....intake....exhaust....timing both cams and ignition

how much money you got????

Great numbers. Sounds like you might have a smaller front sprocket.  The '06 is a great Bandit. I had one.  What you must ask yourself is, will I keep it for a long time or will I move up to the 1250. Trust me the 1250 is a really good bike. Smoother. Faster. And the extra gear is good. You really should get a jet kit though. Dyno Jet do one. Headers will give you a couple of hp. But you probably wont notice it. It will sound better and safe a LOT of weight. The 5* timing advancer does smooth out the idle a bit. I had one. When you do the jets make sure you fit a hi flow air filter such as a K&N or DNA. Remember also. That a lot of guys spend heaps on getting more HP and not worrying about the important stuff like suspension and brakes. If your bike is "set up "right it will be so much more enjoyable to ride.  Have fun and keep us posted.

thanks for the comments. Not really thinking about moving to the 1250 any time soon.

This bike seems plenty good enough, and the price I paid I'd never get a 1250....

I've been reading about the GSX1400 and that sounds like a bike that would be worth moving to.... if they still made them.... now that is a torque monster!

Ordering a jet kit from holeshot this week. That should smooth out my bandit....

hey stu,

I don`t mind the 1250`s, I`ve ridden quiet a few, but I`ll never own one. I personally don't think they feel quicker. they`ve got more torque for sure at a 1000rpm lower than the 1157 oil.

I`ve just started doing a rebuild to my 03 (had it 9yrs)

1216cc
10.8:1 comp
1989 gix 1100 intake and exhaust cams (dialled in)
flowing the head(leaving valves standard)

I`m building this to be a soldier, meaning reliable as, ride around Australia, or do track days, nothing radical at all, and what I`ve listed isn`t radical, and if ridden sedately, will still get the same economy. Just about every part is brand new, apart from the basics. 

I never ever plan on getting rid of my bike, so this is why I`m doing what I`m doing.

I`ve been collecting parts for 2 1/2 years for this, so it hasn`t hit the hip pocket that bad.

With the standard carbs being used (rejetted of coarse) I`m expecting 140rwhp.

If you go flat slides, about 150rwhp. I won`t be doing this, unless I get a cheap pair, and I`ll put them on for special occasions only, doesn`t really interest me.

So if you plan on keeping it for a long time, or you`ve got money to burn for shits and giggles, the numbers you asked about are easily achieved.

mtbeerwah wrote:hey stu,

I don`t mind the 1250`s, I`ve ridden quiet a few, but I`ll never own one. I personally don't think they feel quicker. they`ve got more torque for sure at a 1000rpm lower than the 1157 oil.

I`ve just started doing a rebuild to my 03 (had it 9yrs)

1216cc
10.8:1 comp
1989 gix 1100 intake and exhaust cams (dialled in)
flowing the head(leaving valves standard)

I`m building this to be a soldier, meaning reliable as, ride around Australia, or do track days, nothing radical at all, and what I`ve listed isn`t radical, and if ridden sedately, will still get the same economy. Just about every part is brand new, apart from the basics. 

I never ever plan on getting rid of my bike, so this is why I`m doing what I`m doing.

I`ve been collecting parts for 2 1/2 years for this, so it hasn`t hit the hip pocket that bad.

With the standard carbs being used (rejetted of coarse) I`m expecting 140rwhp.

If you go flat slides, about 150rwhp. I won`t be doing this, unless I get a cheap pair, and I`ll put them on for special occasions only, doesn`t really interest me.

So if you plan on keeping it for a long time, or you`ve got money to burn for shits and giggles, the numbers you asked about are easily achieved.

 I don't know what it is, but the "romance" of the air / oil cooled makes me happier than a water cooled bandit. No idea why, my other bike has a a radiator and I don't hate it....

My "old" 06 hits 200km/h in third gear, overtakes everything in less than the time it takes to think about it and is fun. I agree that some money on the suspension could be good. I did have existing suspension adjusted to my weight (stiffened right up) and that made a big difference to its cornering.... much quicker than it was.

As mentioned, I'm getting the thing tuned with more air and therefore more petrol - that will make a noticeable difference. In a while, when I finish rebuilding my KLR and have some budget, yes thinking of getting new header for the bandit. It has a tiny delkevic slip on at the moment, and it seems to work just fine. Not sure what  gains I'd get from a different exhaust.

I like the idea of the 1216 but I think I'll wait until I have put a lot of miles on it before I get that serious.

If its lean at part throttle, wouldn't you try raising the needles as a first step?

Dekenai wrote:If its lean at part throttle, wouldn't you try raising the needles as a first step?

 Correct.   I used to be a believer in that carbs were better than EFI.  But who am I trying to kid ?  Fuel injection systems are very precise, accurate, and economic. Even the Die Hard Nas Car rev heads changed over to EFI.  There is something nice and a bit old fashioned about a carby though. I suppose us oldies grew up with them. The younger set would not know a carby from a distributer in years to come. I guess it doesn't really matter what moves us, as long as we all enjoy it.

stu wrote:
My "old" 06 hits 200km/h in third gear

 I suspect you have a very optimistic speedo or shortened gearing.

Hammy wrote: Correct.  

 Yeah, but the point is that here is something Stu can do tonight, no need to purchase and wait on the delivery of trick parts.

Yes I could just change the needles, but what the hell I'm going to put more petrol and more air through the engine, because enough power isn't.....

Might buy myself a speedo healer as well while I'm at it.... and count sprocket teeth.

stu wrote:Yes I could just change the needles, but what the hell I'm going to put more petrol and more air through the engine, because enough power isn't.....

Might buy myself a speedo healer as well while I'm at it.... and count sprocket teeth.

Yes, correct, if fact I never met a horsepower I didn't like!
 
You said, "The engine is running lean under 6000rpm, very lean in fact, so it looks like my plans to rejet it will be brought forward a little. Looking to put on the holeshoot stage II jet kit and 5 degree timing advancer as a start." Which would imply that you are looking for more.  Moreover, getting mixture right is not just about raw numbers, it has a major impact on 'rideability'.
 
My point is still that you don't need any of the aforementioned trick parts to start, and as Hammy has pointed out; their adjustability is one great thing about carburettors.

Dekenai wrote:

stu wrote:Yes I could just change the needles, but what the hell I'm going to put more petrol and more air through the engine, because enough power isn't.....

Might buy myself a speedo healer as well while I'm at it.... and count sprocket teeth.

Yes, correct, if fact I never met a horsepower I didn't like!
 
You said, "The engine is running lean under 6000rpm, very lean in fact, so it looks like my plans to rejet it will be brought forward a little. Looking to put on the holeshoot stage II jet kit and 5 degree timing advancer as a start." Which would imply that you are looking for more.  Moreover, getting mixture right is not just about raw numbers, it has a major impact on 'rideability'.
 
My point is still that you don't need any of the aforementioned trick parts to start, and as Hammy has pointed out; their adjustability is one great thing about carburettors.

 I see your point, and I agree BUT seeing as I am paying someone to tune it using their dyno machine, I figure I may as well get the jet kit / filters installed at the time....