Power Commander gear position setup

Whats the sensor used for?

@Reardo The idea is to set a map for each gear, When my bike was dynoed I think 3rd or 4th was used. Hope this helps

Which you can do but it's very expensive as you must repeat the map build process for each gear. The usual approach is to lock the ECU to one gear (5th) using an ATRE and the build a single map. Even doing it this way cost $350, and was quoted around $1500 to do all gears.

or use the auto tune

I am interested to know if it works and how well. A poster on one of the USA sites contacted Dynotune not long after release (of the autotune module), they said is an option for those who did not want (the hassle) or could not access a dynojet tuning centre. Barry mc_ki has one and has had a dyno map built. Would be interesting to compare the base dyno map with the map after auto-tune to see where it has edited the base map. As I say, would love it if works. Have already had two dyno tunes, (one for the TFI, and one for the PC-V) and will probbaly have to another when some cams are added.

I'm afraid I might not be of too much assistnce here, whilst I have had the Autotune installed, connected via a swircg to use it or the PC-V map, and had it "tuned" to an A/F ratio of 12.5 (have to double check that number) across the range, I haven't actually switched it into service.

What I believe the AT does is sets up a table on how much to lean or enrich the A/F ratio over the target map. The AT wide band replacement O2 sensor (the OEM sensor is a narow band unit) measures what the mortor is producing and changes the mixture dependednt on how far away the sensor reading is from the target level. This produces an offset (trim) map that is continually being updated as you ride. The more you ride the closer the offset map gets to the optimum setting you programmed at the start (the target map). Every now and then you should dump the map into the PC-V and this then zero's out the offset map (i.e. PC-V should be running exactly on the A/F ratio you decided, therefor there should be no offsets).

If I ever get round to switching over to the AT I'll post up my findings, but I must admit the original dynotune setup programmed into the PC-V has been good enough for me up to now. Whilst you can just program up the target map, you really don't know without the aide of a dynotune what your the A/F should be for a particualr rev for best power. I believe the AT will give you optimum A/F if just plugging it in, I am not convinced it will give best power if you don't start with a dynotune reference, this is because you may want a slightly richer (or maybe even leaner) A/F to get that extra horse power, and if you have not programmed this in the O2 sensor and AT will keep the bike locked into the reading you set.

As I have mentioned before - I am no mechanic, this is just how I read things, I could be wrong and others might have a better idea. I got a good deal on the PC-V with AT hence why I have it, one day I might even turn it on.

Here's a bit from Dynojet on the AT: