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towing the bike

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Dekenai
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Post  chips Thu 27 Oct 2011, 3:18 pm

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/250817443598?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I have a trailer, 8x6 and I have been wanting to get some thing that means I don't have to compress the forks when towing.

Has anyone used one of these before?
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Post  Reardo Thu 27 Oct 2011, 5:33 pm

I think you still have to tie it down the them too.

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Post  chips Thu 27 Oct 2011, 6:35 pm

I thought if this was bolted to the trailer floor. you could mount the bike in it and then secure the wheels so it can more forward or back without having to compress the forks...
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Post  Dekenai Thu 27 Oct 2011, 7:52 pm

Yeah, but you need to secure both wheels and stabilise the bike. The system I use involves using a single piece ratchet strap which I pass under the bike rail and then over the top of the tyre. The 50mm webbing grips the rubber extremely well and I have never had one slip. I then use a couple of conventional bike tie-down straps through the lower triple camp so they doesn't touch the fairing. These tie downs are fairly loose and just stabilise the bike which is effectively attached to the trailer via the bolt-in rail. I would like to use one of the clamps you show for the front and the only reservation is how much effort it takes to get it out when I need a box trailer again.

Anyway, that's my 2c.
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Post  Reardo Thu 27 Oct 2011, 7:56 pm

Have look at these tie downs mate.

_________________
2007 Bandit 1250sa Silver
*Open airbox lid with K&N.
*Removed Secondaries.
*HealTech Gear Indicator w/tre "Advanced Timing Retard Eliminator is needed".
*Balanced TB's. My TPS was fine, but you should check yours.
*Arrow race headers with Yoshimura TRS.
*PC3 with the supplied map and these mod got 123hp with 115nm of torque.
*Neville Lush Racing custom tune = 130hp with 125nm at the Tyre (Standard 98hp/108nm).
My youtube channel (clickhere)
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Post  Reardo Thu 27 Oct 2011, 8:02 pm

Shit video, but the roadie is about half way in to it.


_________________
2007 Bandit 1250sa Silver
*Open airbox lid with K&N.
*Removed Secondaries.
*HealTech Gear Indicator w/tre "Advanced Timing Retard Eliminator is needed".
*Balanced TB's. My TPS was fine, but you should check yours.
*Arrow race headers with Yoshimura TRS.
*PC3 with the supplied map and these mod got 123hp with 115nm of torque.
*Neville Lush Racing custom tune = 130hp with 125nm at the Tyre (Standard 98hp/108nm).
My youtube channel (clickhere)
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Post  2wheelsagain Thu 27 Oct 2011, 8:39 pm

Can we change the title to "transporting the bike". I thought you'd broken down!

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Post  gus Thu 27 Oct 2011, 8:47 pm

You can use my welder for free and borrow some rope . Very Happy
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Post  chips Thu 27 Oct 2011, 9:06 pm

reardo, that looks good.... But still need something to secure the front tyre as it isn't a bike trailer I'm using, just a standard box trailer.

But It would be sweet if I modified the trailer for the bikes. Best tie down rope system I've seen yet
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Post  barry_mcki Sat 29 Oct 2011, 7:25 am

I have both the Kaneg for the front and a Tyre Down for the back, just briliant.

The problem with straps on the front and across the seat is you are unnaturally compressing the shocks for an extended time, they weren't designed for that. By locking the actual rims to the trailer, any bumps are absorbed as if the bike itself rode over it, i.e. natually.

I think I got the front Kaneg from the same eBay merchant, was over a year ago, no problems with the sale, delivery or the machanise. The Tyre Down is from a two man company in Melbourne, I needed a special order because I have a car tyre on the back of my side-car rig, however the normal Road Hero I think it is called is perfet for the standard rear tyre.

You will also need two eye bolts for the ratchet hooks to go on.

You can have the bike loaded and locked down in under a minute like the film shows, nothing beats this combination IMHO.

Barry
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Post  Kaupy1962 Sun 30 Oct 2011, 3:47 pm

You'll want a bit of pressure on the forks anyway. The way trailers bounce it'll do damage if your forks are being hammered in reverse (extension). Not good for the dampeners.
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Post  chips Mon 31 Oct 2011, 12:57 am

barry_mcki wrote:I have both the Kaneg for the front and a Tyre Down for the back, just briliant.

The problem with straps on the front and across the seat is you are unnaturally compressing the shocks for an extended time, they weren't designed for that. By locking the actual rims to the trailer, any bumps are absorbed as if the bike itself rode over it, i.e. natually.

I think I got the front Kaneg from the same eBay merchant, was over a year ago, no problems with the sale, delivery or the machanise. The Tyre Down is from a two man company in Melbourne, I needed a special order because I have a car tyre on the back of my side-car rig, however the normal Road Hero I think it is called is perfet for the standard rear tyre.

You will also need two eye bolts for the ratchet hooks to go on.

You can have the bike loaded and locked down in under a minute like the film shows, nothing beats this combination IMHO.

Barry

thanks, this is exactly what I needed to hear. Items added to the list of needs.....
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Post  chips Mon 31 Oct 2011, 12:58 am

Kaupy1962 wrote:You'll want a bit of pressure on the forks anyway. The way trailers bounce it'll do damage if your forks are being hammered in reverse (extension). Not good for the dampeners.

Um, I get what your saying, kinda like the damage you would do with both tyres leaving the ground often.

I guess you could run another strap over the seat just to secure the whole thing... but to be honest I would only bother if going for long distances over a rough road....
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