Towing a Trailer

My partner & I are going to start towing a trailer with my 1250 08 Bandit. I have done some short trail runs before I do a long trip from Brisbane to Melbourne next year & the engine seems to be lugging to much for my liking I obviously need to slip the clutch more when I first get moving. To help with this I am changing the front sprocket from 18 to 17 teeth & I hope this is enough. No one I know has experimented with this set up yet. May be I should go for a further gear reduction. 18, 17, 16, 15 & 14 teeth front sprockets are available from my local dealer. The trailer tare weight is 85kgs & the max pay load is 100kgs so I may be pulling up to 185kg, plus two people, plus a gearsack & tank bag (poor thing). Any comments or advise on other mods that may make life easier for the bike would be great, i.e. suspension mods or has anyone heard of a heavy duty clutch assembly? Thanks all.

Is driving an option as I don't see the point of loading a bike like a small car.

I agree . But i'm fine with those that like to "Take it All "And i'll probably be the idiot that asks to borrow something i couldnt fit in .

I think it's a good idea. cause when you get sick of the mrs digging you in the back. Just pull over, and into the trailer she goes.

I`d ask the trailer manufacturer / they must have done heaps before

many people have tried and use a 17 tooth CS sprocket so I'm sure they will be along shortly. I personally did not like it for everyday use but I can see the usefulness when towing a trailer.
Have a look at this site to play with gearing, I find it pretty accurate (not quite real life accurate but mathematically correct).

Seeing as you'll be around the 600-650kg mark on the road, I think a drop on the front, a raise on the back and a new chain will be the go for what you want. I'm thinking somewhere IVO 16/45 to get the rpm up around 4k@100kph so that when you hit hills the engine still has a little in reserve before hitting peak tork as the revs drop which may mean no need to down change. It will also be pretty close to OEM distance between sprockets so you might get away with reusing it if you really really have to (wouldn't recommend it tho) and will retain the original wheelbase. Take off will be easier with less clutch slipping also

I'm going with your advise on the sprocket size Dhula,
Just got back from shop with new brake pads & a 17t front sprocket. Guess what I'm doing tonight. Nice & cheap at only $16. I can go back & swap it for a 16t if I want. Can't get a larger rear sprocket! Not available. The 'Gearing Commander' web site looks fun, I'll play with that.
Ohlins was shut today, I have to go back during the week to get a new rear shock. I've had good product performance from Ohlins before, so I'll stick with what I know there.
We could take my Landcruiser on trips if we want but its nowhere near as much fun. My missus loves it on the bike & so do I, thats what we do. Bikes are for us 'Life is the journey, not the destination'. Taking the car is just boring so the trailer option brings the best of all worlds- bike, beer, bikini, shoes, hair dryer etc- too much complaining & shes in the trailer (hope she doesn't read this).
Didn't think of a new chain. The bike has only done 36,000k. This might be a good opportunity to bling up the chain with a shiny new Tsubaki.
I'll post my results when its all fitted & tested.
Regards, SB

Shortly is now .I use a 17 .Anything you want to know ? Like mow much more your speedo will be out .

17 tooth should help you out, I find it makes the bike more of a hoon machine I doubt you'll fry the clutch if you take off steady and use it like normal.

Heavier duty spring in the rear should help. I contemplating seeing if I could shoe horn in a rear shock from a vStrom so you have an external preload knob for when the wife wants to get on the back.

silver bandit wrote:Can't get a larger rear sprocket! Not available.

try on line.
Superbikesupply stock up to 54tooth in a 530 for ~$75 according to their website.
You'll need or at least should get some form of speedo recal device. There is a thread around here somewhere with many options and comments on them

silver bandit wrote:Didn't think of a new chain. The bike has only done 36,000k.

At that kms get a new chain. Good mileage you got there too I might add.

reddog wrote: I contemplating seeing if I could shoe horn in a rear shock from a vStrom so you have an external preload knob for when the wife wants to get on the back.

Vee (and Wee) shocks should be off the bike tomorrow if all goes to plan (mostly it doesn't) if so I'll get some info to you re length, mounts etc.

Just a question, what weight did you have in the trailer, I have been towing a trailer behind my 1250 since new and previously my 1200 and have never found the engine lugging. I tow a performance trailer 80kg empty with about 60 kilos of gear in it with out nay changes to bike.

Only thing i would suggest is when you do load the trailer make sure you have the balance right or they can become a bit of a dog at certain speeds, nice you get it right I have had mine unto one 150k without any wobble and have been able to keep up with mates in the tight stuff as well.

Tow bar set up is very important as well, ball should be a close to axle height as practical with bike and trailer loaded and both rider and pillion on board.

Bruce