Bandit 1250 suspension upgrade

http://www.carpimoto.com/34850_S0088ABB09-Bitubo-Fork-Cartridge-Kit-Suzuki-Bandit-GSF-1250-A-N-S-SA.htm

http://www.solomotoparts.com/Ohlins-S46DR1-shock-absorber-Bandit-with-and-wo-ABS-07-12

I have been working on a suspension upgrade for my 2010 naked 1250 for the past month or so, the parts arrived recently. The stock suspension is way under sprung and under damped for my weight, 115kgs, I think most manufacturers set there suspension for riders weighing around 75-85 kgs.

I ordered an Ohlins shock from the US which is basically the same spec as the OEM part with preload and rebound adjustment only, however it has a 46mm piston as opposed to a 40mm piston and is a much higher quality unit. Ordered from Sweden and set for my weight cost was $606 delivered.

The fork internals were replaced by a set of Bitubo nitrogen fork cartridges, supplied with Silkolene racing fork fluid, from Italy at a cost of $517 delivered to my door. These fork cartridges replace all of the standard fork internals and are adjustable for preload only, they were also supplied to suit my weight.

The difference this upgrade has made to my bike is amazing, the bike now sits higher in the suspension stroke and steers and holds a line in the corners really well. Compared to standard the tyres give much better feed back through the bars and there is a noticeable increase in traction. The ride is much firmer and may not be to everyones liking, suits me though. I know some guys might like more adjustment in there suspension but for me I just want something that is well set up and works well, I dont ride at race speeds and am not chasing lap times so set and forget works for me.

For the improvements made I think the cost is very reasonable given that I was quoted between $400 and $650 for various levels of work, from well known suspension shops, for the front and between $500 and $750 for the rear. I ended up being able to buy and fit high end components for a similar cost.

The links are at the top as I am not real good on a computer and that is were they have ended up.

Regards,

Graham

Money well spent.

I think so bike handles REALLY well now

BoomGT wrote:http://www.carpimoto.com/34850_S0088ABB09-Bitubo-Fork-Cartridge-Kit-Suzuki-Bandit-GSF-1250-A-N-S-SA.htm

The fork internals were replaced by a set of Bitubo nitrogen fork cartridges, supplied with Silkolene racing fork fluid, from Italy at a cost of $517 delivered to my door. These fork cartridges replace all of the standard fork internals and are adjustable for preload only, they were also supplied to suit my weight.

For the improvements made I think the cost is very reasonable given that I was quoted between $400 and $650 for various levels of work, from well known suspension shops, for the front and between $500 and $750 for the rear. I ended up being able to buy and fit high end components for a similar cost.

Regards,

Graham

I am really interested in this setup for my bike, seems like good value in comparison to getting a local shop to change springs/valves. Just trying to work out how easy they are to install and if I can DIY.

Is it just a matter of removing the top caps from the fork tubes and sliding the new internals in plus the oil?

You will notice a huge difference in damping control with these units, beware though that this setup is quite firm and may not be to everyones liking, you may need a revalve for the initial part of the compression stroke. Installation is straight forward, the only hitch being undoing the damper rod bolt at the bottom of the fork leg, you need heat and a rattle gun. Other than that you just remove the fork internals and slip the new stuff straight in, fit the new top cap before you tighten the damper rod bolts to ensure alignment and then its just a case of setting the oil height and you are done. Remember the fork oil supplied only lubricates the fork sliders and sets the "air spring" as the units are sealed.

Graham

Thanks for the feedback Graham. Considering a few options at the moment, I will post a review about whatever I end up going with.

Anyone able to let me know what tools I need to do this?

Don't mind spending the time on it but don't want to buy the parts and then need to go to a shop to fit them...

I am thinking the fork internals here and then the busa rear shock.

I have a 2007 1250S


Alternatively is there someone over on the west coast that can give me a hand?

Sorry for the late reply. Tools needed are a decent socket set to undo the fork top cap (a suitable size open end spanner will also do) and the various other bolts required to remove the front wheel and the fork legs, a 23mm hex head to fit into and hold the front axle (Motorcycle accesories supermarket in Auburn, Sydney sell aMotion Pro tool with various sizes for about $20), probably a heat gun and a rattle gun to undo the damper rod bolts, a torque wrench to tighten everything on reassembly. If you dont use a torque wrench remember steel bolts in alloy threads strip the thread easily so dont overtighten, be careful. It is a simple job with the exception of loosening the damper rod bolts which usually need some form of heat and a rattle gun to loosen.

All the best

Graham

One tool I have never used is a 23mm (sic...it's actually 24mm) hex to hold the front axle. All I do is to undo the nut side first leaving the other side clamped, then undo it; no special tools are required.

Buy a 24mm head long bolt, heat it and bend the head at 90 degrees. Should save you a bit of money.

Haha the Biturbos are in Perth... just waiting on delivery... Italy to Perth via France China and Singapore 4 days... been in Perth 3 days now... not yet delivered.

geekay007 wrote:Buy a 24mm head long bolt, heat it and bend the head at 90 degrees. Should save you a bit of money.

Or a 15/16ths same same, though point wud be that neither are actually required.

Winning. Looks like I now have plans for the weekend =]

Dekenai wrote:

geekay007 wrote:Buy a 24mm head long bolt, heat it and bend the head at 90 degrees. Should save you a bit of money.

Or a 15/16ths same same, though point wud be that neither are actually required.

Well maybe not for you, but I'm not going to expect a couple of small pinch bolts (23 Nm torque) to
support the load necessary to remove a 100Nm bolt, hence the 24mm bolt trick.

Sorry, still not required to achieve the specified torque value. However, suggest use of anti-seize compound to achieve correct camping force.

its true ,its not required for max torque.

what size allen key is the damper rod? at my folks to pick up some tools but not sure of the size