TB balance/sync

First topic message reminder :

Read a post in the 12000 km service that talked about doing the TB's and letting the dealer/mechanic do it. Considering some of the other post in that thread related to costs etc I thought I'd post this up for those interested how to do it. (did a search and couldn't find anything similar - hope I haven't doubled up)
This is on a GSX650F so if you have a S model or neked bandit you can disregard any reference to fairings. The gauges are different also, but the info regarding the readout/display is the same

Disclaimer:
Before I start I have to say that I have taken all care to create this how to but I will not take any responsibility if you decide to use this info to do it yourself and cock it up causing the bike to have to visit a shop for repairs.
If you are not confident - DON'T DO IT

Righto.

First thing to do is to check that the TPS is adjusted correctly.
1. Create a lot of slack in the throttle cable. Your user manual will show you how to do this adjustment
2. Remove the RH side cover and find the dealer plug.


3. Remove the protective cap form the dealer plug and put the bike into dealer mode. I use a split pin (you'll notice I have covered the end of it to reduce the chance of shorts) but you can buy a dealer switch from Suzuki at a price around $30 AUD. NOTE: If the pic below dos not make sence for the pin location please say so and I'll explain it better.


4. Turn on the ignition and the dash should show something like this


You'll notice mine shows a _C00. This indicates my TPS needs adjusting. The following is a 'at home' way to do it but to get it spot on you'll either need to take it to a Suzuki dealer and ask them to do it for you or buy SDS
5. Remove the LH fairing and find the TPS


6. Loosen the TPS (DO NOT remove it from the bike). you'll need a TORX fitting T20H (it's the one with the hole in the middle) and it can be rotated to adjust the reading on the dash. It is a finiky, fiddly prick of a job to get right but in the end you need the dash readout to look like this when you have finished and have tightened the TPS (not to tight only by hand. I use a screwdriver type tool).


Now onto the TB balance.

NOTE: Leave the bike in dealer mode. If you have started here and not done the TPS check/adjust, put the bike into dealer mode as per step 2-3 above.
1. Remove the tank (you user manual should show you how). to expose the inner workings


2. Locate the IAP sensor


You need to unplug this and remove it with the hoses that are attached to it. This is what you are removing


You can just unplug the IAP sensor and disconnect all the hoses from the engine (those small barbs on the engine will become the test points for the balance tool) but I've said to remove it all so it is easier to see what you are doing, that's all
3. Hook up your balancing tool. I use a Morgan carbtune as I find it the easiest to use and there is no maintenance that goes with it. It is up to you what you use tho.
Locate the adjusting screws for each TB. Here is a pic of cylinder 2


and cylinder 3


Use a torch and take your time, you will find them.
4. Make some kind of thing up to hold your tank above the bike so you can access the adjusters while the bike is running. Here is what mine looks like all ready to go. Nothing pretty, but it works and is safe and secure.


5. Hook up the tank and start the bike. You will a code in the dash that is -C013. This is the code for the IAP you disconnected in step 2 and is perfectly normal. You now need to wait until the bike cooling fan kicks in. This ensures your bike is warmed up enough to do the adjustments. I also use a small fan to blow air onto the radiator and help move exhaust fumes out of my shed. I recommend you do this also as it will get quite hot in there.
This is what mine looked like at first start up


and after it was warm


So you can see I needed to do mine.
6. Adjust each adjusting screw (cylinder) to end up looking similar to this. (Mines not spot on as I still need to run the bike in and I'll be doing it again after the first service. It is better than before tho)


A few tips while adjusting.
*Do not make any changes to the adjustment while the fan is running, wait for it to stop.
*Make small adjustments slowly to be more precise.
*Turning the screw in (tightening it) makes the meter rise (increase in vacuum)
*Turning the screw out (loosening it) makes the meter fall (decrease in vacuum)
*Don't turn the screws out (loosen) too far as they will come out
*If you think you have it where you want it, crack the throttle and release it,wait for the engine to stabilize and check the gauge again. This is very important when you are almost finished and happy with the results.
7. Once happy remove the gauges and put your bike back together.

If there is anything you would like clarified please ask and I'll try to explain with a little more detail.

chears

Cheers , will have a look tomorrow , had to rush out and pick up new arrow pipes and pc5 , finally tracked them down a couple of towns away , bloody aus post ! parcel clearly marked with all my details ends up in wrong town and they just sit on it , wont even call or email ! last time this happened the lady said " LUCKY YOU CAME IN WE WERE ABOUT TO SEND IT BACK TO USA "????????

Anyway enough whinging , got the pc5 in and downloaded map for stock with Leo Vince slipon ( i have Beowulf but figure it should be close )

Was hoping there would be more maps , couldnt find anything for when i get new pipes on ?

Thanks again to REARDO , very happy with solomotoparts? parts went on back order but they gave me the option of refund if i didnt want to wait but for just over $900 delivered for pipes , pc5 and k/n filter i was happy to wait a couple more weeks.

Oh yeah PAIR kit insructions tell me to pull thermostat housing out of way hence need to dump a litre of coolant ?

Been wanting to balance the carbs on the GS500 and the Bandit for a while. Trouble was most places wanted bucket loads for a suitable setup of gauges and hoses. Ghetto solutions didn't really float my boat either. Then I stumbled on this thread and the CarbTune link. Thank you very much for the link, I have now ordered a CarbTune and am looking forward to balancing the carbs in the next few weeks.

watto110 wrote:
Thanks again to REARDO , very happy with solomotoparts? parts went on back order but they gave me the option of refund if i didn't want to wait but for just over $900 delivered for pipes , pc5 and k/n filter i was happy to wait a couple more weeks.

Oh yeah PAIR kit instructions tell me to pull thermostat housing out of way hence need to dump a litre of coolant ?

No probs mate. They have the best online customer service I've ever dealt with really good prices.

I put my PAIR kit in without removing anything. but the tank.

Yes I also put in the Pair without breaking the water system, the thermostat housing is easily moved out of the way. Depending on your kit you might need some socket style allen head drivers to bolt down the plates. You can also put on the Arrows without removing the radiator, read the threads on here to check flange placement and springs. If you have lower fairings you might need some minor surgery as they get a little close on the right side.

Thanks guys , with limited time i am aprehensive to pull bike apart to much in case i cant get it back together ( at the moment with broken leg i value a quick ride to clear the mind a bit ) , got the pv5 in yesterday and uploaded map to suit bike , rode today ,felt nice but not huge difference , looking forward to getting arrow pipes on but still hunting for map to run untill can afford dyno.

Thanks guys , with limited time i am aprehensive to pull bike apart to much in case i cant get it back together ( at the moment with broken leg i value a quick ride to clear the mind a bit ) , got the pc5 in yesterday and uploaded map to suit bike , rode today ,felt nice but not huge difference , looking forward to getting arrow pipes on but still hunting for map to run untill can afford dyno.

Give me a day or two to get my other computer back on the air (we are still unpacking from our move to Tassy), I have two maps I can send you, they made between 125 and 130rwhp (Yosi pipes, fully open air boxes, and secondaries removed).

Cheers , i hope i can repay the favours/knowledge i have received from this site , i can help with dirt bike stuff if required (exept how to ride without busting bones )

How to necro a thread:

Hey, this is a great guide, but all the pictures are missing.  Does anyone have the original pictures laying around?  I don't mind hosting them...

@underwater try dropping @Dhula a PM as he most likely has the originals still.

Not sure why the pics are not there as they were hosted on imageshack which I thought was forever (unlike photobucket), problem is I can't for the life of me remember my imageshack login details as I haven't used it for ages and ages. Since the forum software has changed a bit, I can't tell if the links are still in the post either.
I'll see if I can find the pics (3 laptops, an old desktop HDD and a couple of external HDD's to check through)

EDIT: I've had a look through all my stuff and can't find the pics that suit so I'm not sure how I can help. I've also tried getting into the imageshack account but had no luck so far.
If anyone wants to pull their bike apart and take pics then send them to me I'm happy to post them. If you are willing/happy to do this let me know and I'll tell you what to take a pic of best I can.

Hi
can someone confirm for me that...

If you use the Dealer Mode switch you don't need to pull a vacuum on the ISC controller's vacuum line ?


True or False ?


Thanks
Richard

Sorry mate , the short answer is I don't know .............however a PM to Dhula may give you the answer .............pity the pictures have gone .

I'm pretty sure I printed this out. I'll see if I can ressurect the pictures

If you did, scan them and send them to me and I'll put them in the first post somehow or if the forum can handle word/pdf attachments I can make one of those and attach it.

rd400f wrote:Hi
can someone confirm for me that...

If you use the Dealer Mode switch you don't need to pull a vacuum on the ISC controller's vacuum line ?


True or False ?


Thanks
Richard

True

dhula wrote:

rd400f wrote:Hi
can someone confirm for me that...

If you use the Dealer Mode switch you don't need to pull a vacuum on the ISC controller's vacuum line ?


True or False ?


Thanks
Richard

True

Hi
Thank you.
Richard

Hello,

I have just done the syncronization, my bandit has 60000 km now and I have never done it, first time. As always that I do some mechanical stuff there is some step in the proccess that I regret to have started with it instead to take the bike to a workshop. This time when I tried to pull out one of the vacuum tubes it just broke, I though at first that it has broken the mechanical inlet, later I discover that it was just the tube, not big deal, but my hair has become a bit whiter. Later I forgot to disconet the ISV, I thought that this step was not importat and it is. It was step two in the procedure, when you try to syncronize without remove this connection the iddle is very low and if you want to start the bike you will have to use the throttle, imposible, to get steady, you also get the code C00, not the C13. Later, I disconnected this and it was all fine.

One that I got the C13 code, all was smooth and fine, I let the bike warm for 5 minutes and in 5 minutes more I got it syncronized, easy.

Thank you guys for this post, very helpful to do the job.

This thread reminds me I need to rescan those pictures... I'll try and get it done this week coming at work.

reddog wrote:This thread reminds me I need to rescan those pictures... I'll try and get it done this week coming at work.

reddog, any joy scanning those pics?