Problems after removing secondaries

I just got the bike back together after removing the secondaries. It took me a few weeks as I snapped the head of the screw driver in one of the screws and had to drill it out. Brought a set of proper JIS screw drivers and removed the rest today. Fitted it all back together, Turn the key, get fuel pressure. Hit the starter and it fires but will not idle and the bike is running super rich (lots of dark smoke). I can't be stuffed now but will give it another look tomorrow. I've obviously buggered something up or the power commander has just shit itself.

Worst case scenario I'll pull the power commander and let it run off the stock computer for a little bit to see if it's sorted.

BTW I cleaned the TB's with Nulon Carburettor and throttle body cleaner to make sure it was super clean before re-assembling. Surely that shoudln;t have stuffed the injectors or anything.

Bit pissed off at the moment but willl look at it again tomorrow once I have a clear head.

Usually if it won't idle, it's the IAP controller - either you have left off the vacuum line or pinched it, or the electrical connector is off. The IAP is under the tank on the right hand side above the number 4 injector. (marked no. 15 in the image)



Try dealer mode with paperclip or switch if you have one, and if it throws the C13 code, that's the IAP (or if not, it'll probably give you a code that'll tell you). Check the vacuum hoses from the vacuum ports to the IAP - one off is all it takes. With any of the piggyback TFI type units, just disconnect their main lead to eliminate that as the cause. You don't need to disconnect it all.

It'll be something really simple and a d'oh! moment

Cheers mate.. I'll give the dealer mode a go in the morning and see what shows up. Hopefulyl as you say it's a doh! moment and it is soon rectified.

If not new throttle bodies

kewwig wrote:Usually if it won't idle, it's the IAP controller - either you have left off the vacuum line or pinched it, or the electrical connector is off. The IAP is under the tank on the right hand side above the number 4 injector. (marked no. 15 in the image)



Try dealer mode with paperclip or switch if you have one, and if it throws the C13 code, that's the IAP (or if not, it'll probably give you a code that'll tell you). Check the vacuum hoses from the vacuum ports to the IAP - one off is all it takes. With any of the piggyback TFI type units, just disconnect their main lead to eliminate that as the cause. You don't need to disconnect it all.

It'll be something really simple and a d'oh! moment

Kewwig is on the money. i did the same thing the other week after doing a sync

There is a very large round connecter next to it , check that as well. I just toutched it the other day and it seperated ,unusual as most connecters
seem hard to seperate .Esp. that little one to get the tank off.

Yeh the little one for the fuel pump etc is a pain

I'll take a look today and see if my work can be salvaged. If not you'll see parts for sale on here soon haha

It's getting too cold down these parts to be riding the road bike any way. Time to dust off the dirt bike and go for a ride on that if all else fails

gus wrote:There is a very large round connecter next to it , check that as well. I just toutched it the other day and it seperated ,unusual as most connecters
seem hard to seperate .Esp. that little one to get the tank off.

The large round one is for the injector harness and if that was disconnected, there'd be no running at all.

Go to Repco or Super Cheap Auto and get a small tube of dielectric grease and lube up the mating surfaces of that poxy fuel pump connector. It will just glide out next time and your happiness will be assured......

If IAP sensor wasn't working or not getting signal thru due to poor connection you should get Fi light in most cases (not a given tho)
If IAP sensor wasn't working the ECU will submit a known value and if doing that won't cause black smoke like you say.

Some Q's to get you started but in no particular order

Is the problem at idle or across rev range
Have you checked air intake (airbox, filter, connector tubes to TB's) - you didn't forget to remove a rag did you?
Did you take TB's fully out (I'm guessing you did but good to be sure)
Did you mess with air bleed screws
Did you hook up ISC
Is air hose to ISC blocked
Did you put 2nd throttle shaft back to rest before hooking it back up to the bike
Is the 2nd throttle shaft going thru motions when key is turned (take air filter out you should be able to see it)


There are probably more but that's a start.

If you need new TB's keep me in mind as I have a full complete set (injectors, hoses, ISC etc etc) in the shed still in plastic. They still have secondary plates fitted tho.

Success! thanks guys for your help.

I plugged the IAP hose in but obviously dislodged it whilst tidying everything up. Plugged it back in and it fired no problem.

Set the throttle position sensor as per your instructions Dhula. Took all of 5 mins, 3 of which was pulling the low beam fuse to conserve power as I thought I'd be there for a little while.

I owe you all a beer. The bike sounds and feels better so far, but too early to tell until I take it for a spin.

Tomorrow I need to fabricate a stand for the tank and then I'll get to try out my Carbtune and get the Throttle bodies sync'ed

BTW still a bit fuelly, but I put it down to maybe needing another retune to get it all sorted after the headers and secondary removal.

Ahh - the power of collective wisdom! Well done.