ULX-110 MOTOR OIL

Hi guy's there's been a lot of talk about motor oil on alot of site's and it seem's to be more of a personel thing on what sort of slippery stuff you pour into the belly of your beast, I have three motorcycle's and i use three different type's of oil, My CB1300s..Motul 5100. My 1216 Slingshot 20w50 Shell, and my 96 bandit that has just had a ground up re-build will be run in using valvaline 20w50 for a thousand kilometer's befor changing it out for ULX-110 in 20/50.
I have used this once befor after being hasselled to death from a mate of mine who used the oil in his bike's and was a rep for the stuff,
At the time i was riding a limited edition 2005 bandit which was a great bike that i was doing a bit of Drag racing on, I finally broke down and decided run give this stuff ago so i dropped the old oil out and put a cheap 20/50 in,a few lap's around the block and dropped that out just to flush the motor clean. I then put the ULX into the motor and the differance was imediate, the sound from the tri-oval yoshi was much deeper and to ride it felt like i had picked up around 4 or 5 horse power. i know it sound's like a bit of a yarn but all i can say is ckeck it out on the web it's not a bad read,they put this stuff in every thing from motorcycle's to prime mover's with un-beleiveable result's.












...They call it "Liquid Horsepower"

Racers! How would you like to gain 5 to 15 HP.. just by changing your oil? You literally can.. by switching to superior quality ULX-110 Motor Oil from Performance Clinic. ULX-110 is a highly-refined engine oil with the very best non-shear viscosity index improvers, along with three performance additive packages simply not found in "commercial" grade motor oils.

And... did you know? An EPA-mandated reduction in zinc means regular commercial oils will no longer adequately protect your Race Engine's critical parts. ULX-110 Blended Motor Oil is a custom-built product refined from superior base crudes in a slow, thorough and mild process. It's designed from the molecules-out for high RPM, high temperature and high performance engines.

Protect your investment and get all the POWER you can! Call Performance Clinic for more information on "Liquid Horsepower".. ULX-110 Motor Oil.

Want to learn more? CLICK HERE

Don’t we just love an "oil thread"!
I love an oil thread almost as much as threads suggesting because something us used in racing it must be good.

How many "race engines" cover 6,000km between oil changes (sometimes longer)
I've never seen a race engine/oil required to suffer cold starts and frequent stops before fully up to temp.
The list of differences go on and on and on between an everyday engine and a race engine.
Comparing our little sumps to a long haul diesel always gives me a chuckle too.

A quality oil that’s within engine manufacturers spec. An oil that still works at the end of the service life is good enough for me. And for what its worth that’s Shell or Motul for my bike. 20W50 is out of spec for my environment.

Obviously the more slippery the oil the less power is lost to friction. Whatever floats your boat but I expect and require my engines to last a lot longer than any race engine.

That’s my 2c worth of opinion.

well dont use it...i have used it and i dont treat it any different to the motul in my CB13 and it work's just fine.
it's all about choise and knowning what's on the market,not buying ur paper from the same shop and sitting in the same chair in the same sunny spot till ya dead. and i dont run up and down the drag strip and then put my bike on a trailer. I do minium of 500 k a week though to 1500k in all condition's...if you dont like it dont use it it's that easy

Now now chaps, oil threads almost always cause a little contriversy but I think they can sometimes be a little informative.

While I've never heard of this oil before (most likely due to the fact I'm using what I use and I'm happy with it so why change) it gets info out there and give some the chance to do some thinkin on "am I using what I'm happy with"

I think the info on the ULX-110 website can be a bit self vested and shows the info they want you to read and think about. IMO it's about sales and not much else.
Most of what is said on the site can be explained away, have a similar example from another oil or leaves you wondering with more questions that need an answer.

Then there is the mineral -v- synthetic debate. While some use dino oil for there own reasons and some use man made oil for their own reasons, I think the arguments they use on the site are a bit laughable especially when they use references to "astro turf" and "Polyester double knit 'Leisure' suits?"

The following passage from the website (if you surf around the site you will find reference to this in a few places)

ULX110 is a highly refined emerald green crankcase oil, engineered from top quality solvent neutral base stocks, and the very best nonshear viscosity index improvers, along with three performance additives, ULX110 also contains 2 specialty additives, one a completely oil soluble friction reducer with anti-wear and extreme pressure properties, and a unique viscosity stabilizer and acid neutralizer ingredient.

would have me not using the oil anyway. Even tho the jury is out on whether friction modifiers/reducers can and do damage motorbike clutches, for me it's a no go.

dhula wrote:

The following passage from the website (if you surf around the site you will find reference to this in a few places)

ULX110 is a highly refined emerald green crankcase oil, engineered from top quality solvent neutral base stocks, and the very best nonshear viscosity index improvers, along with three performance additives, ULX110 also contains 2 specialty additives, one a completely oil soluble friction reducer with anti-wear and extreme pressure properties, and a unique viscosity stabilizer and acid neutralizer ingredient.

would have me not using the oil anyway. Even tho the jury is out on whether friction modifiers/reducers can and do damage motorbike clutches, for me it's a no go.

Ditto here mate. Sounds like an advertisement to me.

I have recently changed to Motul 7100 and it may just be in my head ( but I don't think so). There is more vibration at a certain rev range and the gears don't slip in as easily. There is just more engine noise in general. I am changing back.

I never had a problem with the run-of-the-mill Shell Sport 4 (or whatever their equivalent is called now) and the BP 4 stroke bike oil. They were always reasonably priced and I figured that I was never gonna do more than 5-6 k between oil changes anyway. Oil changes only cost me about $60 including the oil and filter and I have never had gear change issues. Any appropriate spec oil from a major oil company is going to do the job well. They aren't going to make crap that will ruin their reputations. Their production levels and economies of scale mean that they will be cheaper to buy as well. I could never see the point of using Motul or fully synthetic oils outside of racing . They are overpriced and any street performance improvement will be in the 'midget's dick' range.

This was never ment to be an advertisment of any kind as i have nothing to do with the oil,apart from giving it ago...it's about having a look at different product's on the market and having a healthy debate and seeing what people think. it would of been the same thing if i got on here raving about shinko tire's, although i swear by prelli's. and i will be putting motul 5100 back in my cb13, it work's well !

Sorry mate, no offence intended.

geekay007 wrote:Sorry mate, no offence intended.

none taken mate..all is good !