Anyone using FI tuner pro?

First topic message reminder :

At this stage my Bandit's mod is only a Yoshi 77 slip on.
With 18K service, will be installing K&N air filter.

I am reading that that above combo could result in a lean fuel mix.

So.... options are... leave it as it is, or install FI tuner pro or similar.

FI tuner pro is the cheapest option. Anyone has used / installed this?
Can't find any reviews online.

Cheers
Andy

08k8 wrote:Ahh I think I found your issue!

In Healtech's instructions, for the bandit, they list "Lambda Control Wire" as "Small Connector Pin#23, Black/White"

In the service manual, as you have pointed out, the numbering beings on the large connector. I also pointed this out to Healtech.

Disconnect the battery, Remove the small connector. ON THE FACE OF THE CONNECTOR, you will see numbers- this is the number they are referring to. The photo I posted earlier today shows this. I also sent in a picture of my connector and Norbert confirms that this is the correct wire to cut.

I also TRIED to remove the connector from the assembly.... Just cut the wire far enough back where you could repair if desired.

Again- no regrets here in the US with this wire cut. Pro'lly have 1000mi on this set-up.

I just noticed this thread.

Edit: I made some measurements: With pin 23 disconnected,Pin 12 on the large connector gets pulled high,disabling the lambda sensor input.

The above answer does not make sense.Possibly the Healtech installation instructions may be in error regarding the lambda sensor.If it is still connected because of this possible error the ECM may be overiding the FI Tuner's map.

I have sent the following email to Norbert for more clarification:

Hi Norbert

Can you clarify some confusion I have with the installation instructions.
I think you may have been contacted regarding this issue,by other customers,before.

I have had a FIT-S01 on my GSF 1250 SA K9 for about a month and it seems to be running ok.I have a Scorpion slip on and a standard air filter with an airbox with an enlarged intake.Fuel consumption has increased from about 5.5 l/100 km to about 6.0 l/100 km.
I have just seen on an Australian Bandit forum (https://nswbandits.forumotion.net/t963p45-anyone-using-fi-tuner-pro)(page 4) that there is some confusion regarding Healtech's instruction to remove the lambda sensor wire to the ECM.
Healtech calls for wire number 23 on the small connector (black/white stripe) to be disconnected.
The Suzuki service manual numbers the small connector differently to the numbering on the actual connector.Pin 23 corresponds to pin 57 in the Suzuki manual.Pin 57 is not labelled with any function.The Black/White stripe colour code implies it is a ground wire.

The Suzuki manual lists the HO2 sensor signal as being pin 12 on the large connector and the HO2 heater wire is pin 6 on the small connector - or pin 40 in the Suzuki manual's numbering system.

The manual seems to be correct for all the wire assignments.

Your clarification would be much appreciated.


Kind Regards

I am seriously considering rejoining the black/white wire and cutting the white/green wire on pin 12, and I'll tell you why. If I run a zero map my fuel economy is perfect. BUT. I'm noticing a green puddle under the bike which tells me that it's running too lean. That's on one day. On another day, still running a zero map, my fuel economy is crap. This is running at 40% throttle, at 3,500-4000 rpm at 110kph. I still have a glowing muffler.
When I run the bike with the laptop hooked up, only the cells that are in 0 throttle position that correspond to the current rpm light up. Even though the screen shows the correct throttle calibration. So something is just not right.

I was interested in one of thesebut i have decided to go with dale walkers tfi.Plenty of very happy customers and he has spent a lot of time getting it right. Just waiting on a response with a postage cost

holdenman wrote:I was interested in one of thesebut i have decided to go with dale walkers tfi.Plenty of very happy customers and he has spent a lot of time getting it right. Just waiting on a response with a postage cost

I have dales setup and am very very happy with it. Dale is always available to give advise too.

Kaupy1962 wrote: I am seriously considering rejoining the black/white wire and cutting the white/green wire on pin 12, and I'll tell you why. If I run a zero map my fuel economy is perfect. BUT. I'm noticing a green puddle under the bike which tells me that it's running too lean. That's on one day. On another day, still running a zero map, my fuel economy is crap. This is running at 40% throttle, at 3,500-4000 rpm at 110kph. I still have a glowing muffler.
When I run the bike with the laptop hooked up, only the cells that are in 0 throttle position that correspond to the current rpm light up. Even though the screen shows the correct throttle calibration. So something is just not right.

I'm confident that pin 23 on the small connector is correct.It is a "control" connection for the lambda sensor.
I disconnected it and reconnected it several times while monitoring the lambda sensor voltage on pin 12 of the large connector.
Connected,the voltage is obviously following the lambda sensor output.Disconnected it stays at just below 5 volts.

Here's Norbert's reply to my questions:


In short, forget the Suzuki manual and do the steps described in the FIT instructions.

The wire we instruct to cut is not documented in the Suzuki manual, it's a secret way to force the ECU to ignore the lambda sensor.
After cutting this wire, you can then remove the lambda sensor if you wish, it won't induce an FI error.

Feel free to post this information on the forum and let me know if you have any further questions.
And:

Yes, pin #23 is the lambda CONTROL wire, which is not documented in the Suzuki manual.

Hey Holdenman, I sure you will be happy with Dale Walkers kit. Did the Stage 2 mods on my GSX 1250FA , Cost $375 delivered. If you need any help installing just PM me and i will try to help.

Instead of cutting wires, why not buy one of these or similar.
I've got 2 sitting in the shed not being used, if someone wants them, come and get them

I'm with Dhula. I would hate cutting wires.

Kaupy1962 wrote: I am seriously considering rejoining the black/white wire and cutting the white/green wire on pin 12, and I'll tell you why. If I run a zero map my fuel economy is perfect. BUT. I'm noticing a green puddle under the bike which tells me that it's running too lean. That's on one day. On another day, still running a zero map, my fuel economy is crap. This is running at 40% throttle, at 3,500-4000 rpm at 110kph. I still have a glowing muffler.
When I run the bike with the laptop hooked up, only the cells that are in 0 throttle position that correspond to the current rpm light up. Even though the screen shows the correct throttle calibration. So something is just not right.

That sounds like you have a problem.
With the laptop connected the highlighted cell should correspond to the rpm and tacho reading of the engine.
I.E. as you blip the throttle the highlighted cell should move all over the graph.

I would check your TPS and tacho wire connections for the FI Tuner at the ECM plug.

I have. Both are reading as they should. Everything is normal except that the highlighted cell doesn't follow the TPS. It just stays in the 0% column. On the right side of the screen, the TPS reads as normal.

Hey duhla. I would really like to get one of those plugs but I'm in VIC

Thanks dhula for EBay link .. much as I would have liked to have one of your 'freebies' I am in South Australia .. so I have paid to get one - I hope it is clear exactly where I will need to plug it (!! ) or else I will be dredging through threads on this forum for info. I will undoubtedly find it is self-evident if I just re-read THIS thread .. so ignore my late night dribble.

Snip Snip! fear not guys- just cut the wire!

I bought the OBD system from Healtech. Just like you, I was really worried about cutting that wire... Once I did, the O2 sensor signal went to a steady valuve- .5v I think. I've had my bike configured this way for 4 months now and no issues to report.

If you look @ the wiring diagram, this black/ white wire is actually a ground. It is an input to the ECM, and when taken away, it does not trim the fuel map with the O2 signal.

BTW- I have an Air Fuel Ratio AFR meter with data logging. (just borrowed from a buddy). I'm going to collect some info on my bike with the wire cut- I will share when available.

If you take off the LH side cover you will have access the the GP sensor plug (3 pin triangular plug, has a pink wire in there), the speedo plug (3 pin flat, black in colour IIRC)and the o2 sensor plug (the only one that is left but IIRC is white in colour and 4 pin square shape)
Disconnect this plug, tape of the sensor end to protect it from dirt and crap and plug the eliminator into the other end (it will only fit one way)

Is the plug a green one? Coz that's what my o2 sensor has got on it. A three wire green plug.

The wire and its jacket look different than the rest- the jacket has a high temp coating to it. I just pulled mine. Had to loosen the voltage regulator (3 mounting bolts) and fish the wire out. It takes a 17mm wrench to pull the O2 sensor. Use the box end of the wrench. Slip th wire through the box end of the wrench and take her out.

You might want to get a 12mm plug to fill the hole. Ask a mufler shop.

You don't have to snip the wire to the sensor.You do have to snip the wire to the ECU pin #23 - this is the input that disables the O2 sensor function in the ECU.
It's in the FIT instructions.


N.B. there is potential to get confused about pin numbers.
It is pin #23 on the small ECU connector. - the connectors have numbers molded into the face the wires enter the connector.
In the Suzuki service manual wiring schematic for the 1250,the numbers are sequential across both the big ECU connector and the small ECU connector,starting on one connector and continuing on the next connector,not starting from 1 on each connector.
In the wiring schematic pin #23 on the small connector is labeled #57 and has no description,just marked with a - .
The wire on #23 (#57) is a black/white wire indicating it is a ground.Pin #23(#57) is an switch input to the ECU to disable the O2 sensor for Suzuki's/Mitsubishi's own purposes. Probably for use when developing ECU software.That is why it's function is not labeled in the diagram.


I hope that clarifies things.There seemed to be a lot of confusion early in this thread about pin numbers and whether error messages would appear if the wire was cut.

The o2 sensor bypass does the same thing without snipping any wires.

I recently bought a 2010 GSX1250Fa and after reading the Holeshot Performance article, cut open what appears to be a restrictive air cleaner box and fitted a sports pipe. Not entirely sure, but it seemed from this point on the engine "popped" on lean cruise, I have seen other people reporting this, the engine kind of surged and bucked at steady low engine speed, it was very annoying, I kept wanting to accelerate to get through it. I recently installed the FI tuner, was very easy, the hardest part was getting the map install past Norton Anti Virus. I downloaded the "sports pipe" version of the map from Healtechs website, I later noticed they have added 8 units to the injection map at those low engine speeds, this suggests this is a common fault.

So after fitting the unit the engine is a lot smoother at low engine speeds, no more surging and popping, so far I am very happy.

Before fitting the FI tuner, I balanced the throttle bodies twice, checked for vacuum leaks, it had made no difference to the popping.

Yesterday I removed my secondary throttles, pretty easy operation, but I dunno how anybody managed to unscrew those screws, mine were glued for good, I tried solder irons everything, the plastic handle from the new screw driver twisted off its shaft and still those suckers wouldn't budge. Eventually I removed the injectors, and drilled the screws out, hell I aint putting those restrictors back in. After start up I balanced the throttle bodies again, still haven't ridden it yet, the rain outside is horrendous, not a good time to fang around.

I will get it dyno tuned at some point, but at least I know its no longer running too lean.

The next issue to sort out is a very annoying buzz the instrument cluster makes at 3000RPM, anyone come across this?

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Thank you...

Well, my first impression is .... yes, it does make difference.
Could be a halo effect, but...

I believe that it has reduced back fire by about 50% and I haven't had occasional surging at low RPMs that I had before.
Also, Bandit accelerates much better. I had a "flat" spot at 3500-4000 RPMs. Now it just pulls.

Overall, I think it was a worth while mod.

Will be interesting to see fuel consumption.
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Back fire is fixed by plugging the PAIR line. Have you done this easy mod?

I just bought and installed the f1 pro tuner on my 2011 gsx 1250fa, Im running a KNM intake filter and yoshimura slip on.  I also have had the unsteady low rpm motor shakes, but I have noticed a diffenent differance, more excelleration and smoother throttle runs. I have played with the program alittle, but have been unable to find any detailed info on the programming, Plan on taking it to a dyno soon to just double check,  But over all I am very pleased with the performance improvements. its even smoothed out the idleing.   And yes I get the instrument vibration between 3000-4500 rpm and it is a bit annoying, Dont know how to fix it except putting a matchbook in one of the cracks around it.  lol
   I snipped the wire as per the installation instructions, as long as you leave enough wire, its an easy fix   I think its a safer than disconnecting and tucking the wire end in some crevice.  I kinda like the back firing when I dexcellerate, makes me think Im on a track with complete strait pipes, I often ask my buddies if they happen to see flames coming out the end.         steve   

I am just installing the FI Pro and the instuction say to disconnect the exhaust valve cable.
Is this what Suzuki call the PAIR Control solenoid valve??? 

spanna wrote:I am just installing the FI Pro and the instuction say to disconnect the exhaust valve cable.
Is this what Suzuki call the PAIR Control solenoid valve??? 

Those aren't 1250 Bandit instructions.  There is no exhaust valve cable on a Bandit.  This will be an exhaust valve like on the CBR1000RR or ZX10. Nothing to do with the PAIR.  You either have the wrong kit or wrong instructions (or both)

Thanks