Healtech ATRE installation

Just got a Healtech ATRE GP...

The red wire needs to be connected to an Ignition on wire, my question is, which is the safest wire to use ?
Also, i dont want to use the supplied "guillotine" connector, so am planning cutting and splicing in via one of those
heatshrink solder connectors.

And advice on the best wire to use would be greatly appreciated

If it just needs connecting to a wire that provides voltage to let the ATRE know the bike is on, then use the tail light positive. It's non-critical and will have voltage whenever you turn your key to 'on'

Use the supplied connector, soldering auto connections is not recommended. I used a guillotine connection to get signal from the ride-by-wire throttle on my S1000R to the rapidbike evo and it was problem - free for years and years. Removing it was easy, too

I ended up using the fuse box from the SV i am parting out. Cut the flasher can section off. 3 of the fuse positions are fed by one wire, I connected that to a patch I made from the SV tailight plugs....inserted into the Bandit tailight loom. Then the TRE power went in with a 2 amp fuse.

Finally got a chance to ride the bike with the TRE active, and i am very happy..... way more pep in the gears now.... 
Found myself riding in a lower gear more too because the gears, for want of a better word feel fatter.....
Even feel like there is a little more engine braking too, probably because of the advance.

The unit itself is so easy to use too.... 

Slapped a BMC air filter in as well, but holding off on the airbox mod until the secondaries get plucked.

I've got a suggestion for you that could save you time and money...
Why not take the bike to a tuner and get it flashed?
While they're adjusting AFR to prevent your engine running lean they can also do the following via the ECU, saving you the need to add parts / take out parts:
-Get rid of the timing retard
-Set the secondary throttles to remain open
-Disable the emissions that cause the fuel to cut when you're off the throttle (this adds to the jerky throttle response)
From what I can gather you've disabled the PAIR, so that'll help with the tune. They'll also get rid of your O2 sensor.

If you mod the airbox and remove the secondaries then you'll need to get it on the dyno anyway. You can get the tuner to disable secondaries for you. I didn't realise that this was possible so I removed mine, but you can save yourself the hassle.

With secondaries gone and a tune you're probably looking at about 15 - 20hp gain. That's a bit of a guess as mine had headers as well. I saw 117hp with secondaries out and black widow exhaust before the tune and 122 with the flash and airbox mod.

Don't ride around without the secondary butterflies or airbox lid unless you have it tuned to match. It'll run quite lean

If you're in Melbourne, then I can recommend Phil Tainton Racing for this work.

Thanks for that post SRAD_Pitt

Very comprehensive.

I am looking at all options at the moment and this information is excellent, thanks heaps....

Adding a pic of the piggyback i put into the tailight circuit. Have added more heatshrink tube
since, Used solder heat shrink splice tube.

Yeah sorry if I was a bit dismissive about the ATRE. I totally get it if you're just enjoying working on the bike.

Some people think removing the secondaries and the rod they are mounted on is worth the effort, but I kind of doubt it. One thing I've felt is that your midrange output will be affected by the amount that you hold the throttle open, almost like a set of flatslides. The secondaries remain a little closed through the midrange to encourage higher intake airflow speed, once you remove them you have to do that work yourself by avoiding WOT

Torque is immense with the mods I listed. At least 80 ft-lbs from just over 2k - 8k rpm, peaking at 90 ft-lbs at just under 6k rpm

Oh, one other thing - an air filter from the earlier 1200 bandit fits the 1250 and has a chunk more filter mesh space, allowing more airflow

Edit - k&n 1200 filter part number is su-6000

1200:


1250:

Damn....I already got a 1250 BMC filter in her on the weekend .... Oh well.... I prefer the BMC over the K&N as it has 3 ply media to 2 ply on the K&N.... Better filtration.
But, have just looked...BMC spec the same filter through all the Bandits...and it is a full panel