Pistons and ATRE

A couple of quick questions lads.

Anyone tried hi-compression pistons on a B1250, and if so where can I get some?

Ditto for the ATRE.

Any feedback re performance gains/ drawbacks would be appreciated.

I don't think you'll find too many people have tried hi comp pistons in the 1250 yet but I have seen a few retailers with them available. Bandit already has 10.5:1 and to go much higher will need other mods to make it beneficial. IMO if you are after HP/tork then the other mods will be money better spent before changing the internals. (Better still spend some coin on handling and stopping improvements unless of course you are a 1/4 mile at a time kinda person)

As for the ATRE, there are some for the gadget and some against. I did the getto pink wire mod which cost me zilch and found a difference so it's up to you I guess.

Hi-comp pistons are in works at Holeshot and should be available soon. Have a look at Maximum-Suzuki for more details.

Cheers

dhula wrote:As for the ATRE, there are some for the gadget and some against. I did the getto pink wire mod which cost me zilch and found a difference so it's up to you I guess.

What is the pink wire mod? I hope it only involves cutting a pink wire. Does that mod 'de-retard' the timing in the lower gears?

The reason I was thinking about Hi-comp pistons is that my CBR 1100XX had a comp ratio of 11:1. I figure if I can bump it up to that, it might give another 10-20 hp. I really want my Bandit to pump out close to 140 hp.

Thanks for the input lads.

Dude, do some research before comparing oranges with apples

The CBR is a different engine and makes it's HP and torx



in different areas compared to the bandit.



(Pics courtesy of Akra site)


While 140hp out of a bandit is doable (I think a german mob got 151 hp) it's guna take a fair bit of mods to do so and hi comp pistons are not the only thing you will need. One of the restrictions to high HP output in the bandit is the size of the TB's and to change these will cost bigguns. Once you do that what else will need doing you must ask yourself.

The bandit IS NOT a CBR1100XX so it will not behave like one. Ride it for what it is and enjoy it or go and buy the CBR back if you are after that kind of performance

Doing the pink wire mod is as simple as cutting/removing the pink wire but it will not give you more HP or torx. It will remove the ign advance restriction in the lower gears and top end speed restriction but that is all it does.

Thought Stage 2 with headers provided close to what your after. ~132hp. ??

Again, thanks for the input. I'm not trying to turn the Bandit into a Blackbird, just wondering if anyone's gone with high-comp pistons that's all. As far as power output goes, the BMEP of the engine will be a factor in it's output. If the comp goes up, you will get more power by default. I was curious if anyone here knew as I'd scoured several search engines and hadn't found any info on Bandit 1250 pistons.

Thanks again

I have the GiPro ATRE. Great gear indicator and as far as I can tell, makes no difference to power at all. This is a common view across the various forums. Best power gains from my experience with Dale Walker Stage 1 and 2

register on max-zuk if you haven't already and then have a look at this thread
There are a few others I've come across in my travels out in the WWW, may take a bit to find is all.

it might be just me---but why??? i have never felt any absence of urge with the bike and the only time higher powered bikes would out accelerate it [if that matters crucially] is over about 180ks or something so who cares? it would be cheaper to buy another bike if you need 140 hp. spend your money on the suspension

Thanks guys.

Can anyone point me to where this mysterious pink wire is located? I would like to cut it this weekend.

Thanks for the post dhula, I'll buy the pistons once Dale Walker sorts it all out.

geekay wrote:As far as power output goes, the BMEP of the engine will be a factor in it's output. If the comp goes up, you will get more power by default.

Everything is great in theory. In practice and the real world sometimes the math does not = a good result that is usable.

Bumping up compression brings with it some other things that need to be done to make the hp/torx, it not always a case of "it happens by default".

True, but with the TFi box, the fueling can be made to run quite rich so adding the extra fuel won't be a problem. I doubt bumping the comp up a few tenths will create havoc eg. new TBs, new radiator etc. I'll wait until Dale Walker puts a kit out. At least I'll know that a pro has done the hard yards. He doesn't seem like the guy who'd put out a dubious kit. As far as installing them, I owned a servo for 10 years so it isn't a problem in terms of labour and tools. I'm more than happy to strip an engine down myself. A nice project for the holidays at the end of the year perhaps.

I think it was on the Yoshi site or a yoshi supplier site. about a 1250 with 140hp using the new yoshi cam & headers, airbox mod, etc etc. by memory I think the cam moves peck power up about 1000rpm & added 10hp.

Cheers Reardo.

If I do go that route, I think I might leave the cams alone. I like the down low grunt. 140 bhp was pretty much a nice sounding figure I pulled from my arse frankly. Anything over 125 hp will do nicely. I'm keen on derestricting the ignition timing in 1st gear though. Any idea about where to locate this mysterious pink wire?

find the gear position sensor connector plug located under the rh side panel (three pins one of which is pink) found in about the same spot as the o2 sensor connector plug

remove the pink wire from the connector block (fiddly but you'll get it).
Insulate the wire
Ride on

NOTE: doing this will stop the gear position indicator on GSX650F and GSX1250F working. Neutral light will still work and gear indicator will show "0" or "-" when in neutral.
Doing this mod essentially selects 6th gear ign map in ECU.
Does not throw Fi warning or store DTC that I know of however I have not done it on a 2010+ bike

Bugger top end HP. Do yourself a favour if you haven't already. Drop a tooth on the front and you won't care about HP figures.

Thats for the ZX14/ Hayabusa owners to worry about.

Our bikes are a cheap bigger bore muscle/touring bike. They are not high HP straightline supersports.

My bike all up with mods has cost around $14500-15000. Still only putting out around 130HP, can do the quarter in 11.3ish seconds and easily does the tonne. What more do you want?

P.S. I'm in the TRE does 3 parts of stuff all camp. Don't bother with it unless you want a gear indicator and it's part of it. Dyno graphs don't lie, and we ran mine multiple times with and without the TRE without any apparent gains.

Dhula,

I'm really struggling with those neat power charts you gave us. Are those faint lines in the background supposed to be torque curves? If so I'm missing something. Horsepower equals torque times rpm divided by 5252. That being the case, at 5252 rpm horsepower and torque should be equal and they are not on those charts. Do you guys use a different system from us? Torque reported if pound-feet?

Ed

Good stuff gents!

I'll get stuck into that this weekend dhula. As far as I can tell, the 2010 bike has virtually the same mechanicals/electricals as the 2007.
No need for the TRE then. I don't need the gear indicator, I feel it's already started to dumb me down a bit! Doesn't seem so long ago that we called the green N light the 'idiot lamp'.

Thanks again for your input, it's very much appreciated.
Hava-good-weekend

5-shot wrote:I'm really struggling with those neat power charts you gave us. Are those faint lines in the background supposed to be torque curves? If so I'm missing something. Horsepower equals torque times rpm divided by 5252. That being the case, at 5252 rpm horsepower and torque should be equal and they are not on those charts. Do you guys use a different system from us? Torque reported if pound-feet?

The faint line in the background is tork and is showing Nm not lb/ft (weird how they combine metric and imperial but us humans are a strange beast, we still stick with the good old HP for engines yet motors seam to be moving quite rapidly to Kw).
One thing to keep in mind is that the formula is more for an engine running on a engine dyno, not a vehicle running on a chassis dyno.
Chassis dyno's do have a distinct disadvantage as they have to deal with the multiplication caused by the driveline when it comes to tork and this can make it seam that things don't line up properly no matter the smoothing, correction etc

Thanks DHULA,

It works perfectly now.

Ed

I'll stick to polishing nut !