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out with old,in with new

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talon440
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Post  mtbeerwah Sun 27 Oct 2013, 3:49 am

out with old,in with new Img_0013

new motor finally built, can`t believe its been almost 3 years since started gathering parts to do it. So out with old..

out with old,in with new Img_0014

Still waiting for Hindle headers to come, so will clean up frame a bit, and clean up unwanted wiring from world market demands that aren`t used here.
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Post  Jimmy the Boy Sun 27 Oct 2013, 7:01 am

What special bits are you hiding in there MtB?? GSXR 750 cam?
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Post  mtbeerwah Sun 27 Oct 2013, 8:52 am

Jimmy the Boy wrote:What special bits are you hiding in there MtB?? GSXR 750 cam?
WELL....quiz master(having just seen your notoriety)

yeah mate, nothing major going on,

1216cc J&E pistons

New 1989 1100GSXR cams(they`re still made) dialled in IN: 106*  EXH  108*

head has been flowed

Hindle Headers to assist the head flow

Basically that's it, but have done absolute full ground up rebuild, if something even looked remotely suspect, gone with new
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Post  paul Sun 27 Oct 2013, 10:33 am

Excellent ............keep us up to date Very Happy

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Post  Hammy Sun 27 Oct 2013, 10:39 am

That should put out some pretty serious numbers.  Good stuff.
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Post  mtbeerwah Sun 09 Mar 2014, 9:57 pm

Well..I`ve finally got it back on the road today, and started running the new mill in, for anyone interested in 1200`s

Will take the next 1000km`s to settle it in, but first impression is, it wants to pull.

The first 100k`s 3500-4000rpm 

100-500k`s ease it up to 5000rpm (I`m at 160km`s now) and so on and so forth.

Running the new cams has moved the power higher in the RPM, but with the slight increase in cube`s, has left it with the same torque down low as a standard 1200, but have found as soon as you hit about 3800RPM, it starts to lift the wheel, and this is with a very light feed as you would with running in an engine.

Haven`t put the Hindle headers on yet, and am running the factory headers so it isn`t jetted to suit the engine yet. Just want a safe set up to run it in, and am watching plug colour to dictate where I am tune, and will be checking them after each ride.

Running in will be the only time I will use a temp gauge to understand how the engine reacts to the bigger bore, if all good, will ditch that straight away.

Can`t wait till its all set up the way I want it.

Good to be back on it, as I haven`t ridden it in about 7 months, and as much as I like my DRZ 400... doesn`t compare
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Post  Hammy Mon 10 Mar 2014, 7:09 am

I'm happy for you. Job well done. So far.
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Post  Jimmy the Boy Mon 10 Mar 2014, 8:10 am

Fantastic mate. Im really looking forward to hearing the results. My money is on this beast being an absolute weapon. I love the 1200 motors. Stick a GXR1100 cam in there, jet it and tune it up, let it breathe through a Hindle system and some shit is going to happen. Sounds like fun to me. Smile  Smile
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Post  talon440 Sun 23 Mar 2014, 12:14 pm

mtbeerwah wrote:Well..I`ve finally got it back on the road today, and started running the new mill in, for anyone interested in 1200`s

Will take the next 1000km`s to settle it in, but first impression is, it wants to pull.

The first 100k`s 3500-4000rpm 

100-500k`s ease it up to 5000rpm (I`m at 160km`s now) and so on and so forth.

Running the new cams has moved the power higher in the RPM, but with the slight increase in cube`s, has left it with the same torque down low as a standard 1200, but have found as soon as you hit about 3800RPM, it starts to lift the wheel, and this is with a very light feed as you would with running in an engine.

Haven`t put the Hindle headers on yet, and am running the factory headers so it isn`t jetted to suit the engine yet. Just want a safe set up to run it in, and am watching plug colour to dictate where I am tune, and will be checking them after each ride.

Running in will be the only time I will use a temp gauge to understand how the engine reacts to the bigger bore, if all good, will ditch that straight away.

Can`t wait till its all set up the way I want it.

Good to be back on it, as I haven`t ridden it in about 7 months, and as much as I like my DRZ 400... doesn`t compare

must be seeing things....temp gauge on your bike... who uses one of those....oh thats right I do and now you do as well..  lol!
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Post  reddog Sun 23 Mar 2014, 2:53 pm

Good work. If you are interested in rebuilds you should check out Scaramouches ground up rebuild of his gsxr1100 on Aussie street bikes. He is spending some big money I'd guess but he has aftermarket everything.
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Post  mtbeerwah Sun 23 Mar 2014, 7:08 pm

talon440 wrote:
mtbeerwah wrote:

Running in will be the only time I will use a temp gauge to understand how the engine reacts to the bigger bore, if all good, will ditch that straight away.


must be seeing things....temp gauge on your bike... who uses one of those....oh thats right I do and now you do as well..  lol!
Good to see you read and understood, unlike you who needs a security blanket at all times.


Last edited by mtbeerwah on Sun 23 Mar 2014, 7:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  reddog Sun 23 Mar 2014, 7:08 pm

Here's the link for those interested http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20568
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Post  talon440 Mon 24 Mar 2014, 6:09 pm

mtbeerwah wrote:
talon440 wrote:
mtbeerwah wrote:

Running in will be the only time I will use a temp gauge to understand how the engine reacts to the bigger bore, if all good, will ditch that straight away.


must be seeing things....temp gauge on your bike... who uses one of those....oh thats right I do and now you do as well..  lol!
Good to see you read and understood, unlike you who needs a security blanket at all times.
guess theres no sense of humour up on the mountain
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Post  mtbeerwah Mon 24 Mar 2014, 6:54 pm

Sorry..I forgot to put the international symbol and acronym.....LOL

I think you`ll find everything is kosha now  silent
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Post  Bosco15 Mon 24 Mar 2014, 7:54 pm

Well done, MtB.
There's no feeling quite like firing up a fresh built motor that you built yourself. Double checking everything in your head and still somehow saying a quiet prayer to the motor Gods to let it fire and idle nicely.
I'm a big fan of the oil cooled Gsxr donks. I owned a couple of 750's and test rode an 1100 that scared the pants off me.
I dare say that you've built a rip snorter of a bike.

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Post  mtbeerwah Tue 25 Mar 2014, 12:26 am

Bosco15 wrote:Well done, MtB.
There's no feeling quite like firing up a fresh built motor that you built yourself.  Double checking everything in your head and still somehow saying a quiet prayer to the motor Gods to let it fire and idle nicely.  
I'm a big fan of the oil cooled Gsxr donks. I owned a couple of 750's and test rode an 1100 that scared the pants off me.
I dare say that you've built a rip snorter of a bike.

Thanks Bosco.

I didn`t build this thing to be a weekend bike, but as what I have always used the bike for, and that is a daily rider.

It is different from standard, but by no means an all out track or drag motor.

Slight increase in cubes, to 1216, still less than a water cooled 1255.

Compression is around 10, up from 9.5,(I want reliability) still less than water cooled at I believe 10.5.

Head has bean flowed. Not ported or over sized valves.

Yes it has the gix cams, dialled in, which has put the power band higher.

I have finally run the thing in, and with this combo..how does it go...well power starts at 3800, and from 4500 to 10 500 pulls very very hard. A lot harder than a standard 1200. More than I expected, and this at the moment is with standard airbox and standard headers.

When I say power starts at 3800, the thing feels no different than a standard 1200 up to that point, but after that they are two totally different engines, it snaps to redline unlike a standard 1200.

You really have to "feed" the power in the lower gears, not just open it up, as one should anyway with any bike, it can`t  get power to the ground otherwise.
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Post  truck Thu 26 Mar 2015, 10:43 pm

Hey MTBeerwah,
just wondering how the bike is after your mods were completed and the engine had a bit more of a run in? Any issues that you would change if you had your time over?
Sorry for the thousand questions.
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Post  mtbeerwah Fri 27 Mar 2015, 1:08 pm

geez..i`d forgotten about this thread.

um...still haven`t fully gotten around to, and probably  still will be some time before doing what I consider to be the correct airbox set up and jetting to suit.

At the moment as it stands, I still have the standard airbox with no mods to it at all, and a full Hindle system, which I think I will get ride of, and go back to the standard headers, or custom made, with smaller I.D pipe, for more back pressure 

Why!!   well I dynoed to get the AF correct only, not for power, to originally run it in  and now with the hindle full system on , and again check after run in, it lost a lot of torque with the full system, and I`m not happy with it. With the standard system, and brand X Can on, it had a lot of torque, and only minimal power gain with the full system.

Basically, by seat of the pants, before with the factory headers, it had smack straight away to redline, now with the full system, it doesn`t start to work until 4000rpm, and is pissing me off a lot, so will be going back to stock or custom setup. Yes I will jet and play there, but I don`t think it needs the total increase I.D  as per typical after market.
 I, and we, don`t have full race engines, so why have a massive system on.

Once again, at the moment,  "NO AIRBOX MODS AT ALL", and only small changes in jetting to correct AF, and is at 132rwhp.  If I wanted to go with an RS Flatslide system, and focus on power, there`s a whole lot more to be made from this engine, from those carbs, but, not that I care about economy, but with them on, there`d be none.That's not the path I`m going down. 

The HP thing means jack shit to me, but how it delivers the power is critical to me, and as said, by seat of the pants, the standard system is better, and quieter too. 

I`ve played with the cam degree, first starting with,  IN -106*  EX -108*,  I have now changed that ,  IN -102*  EX -104.5*, and bottom end torque has picked up a bit there.

This will be a total tweak and play thing, and will take along time to perfect, to get what I want out of the bike.
At least I have another one, a Gen 1 to get around on, and I love it stock as is. Just to give you a comparison of the two. The Gen 1 has a copious amount more torque at the moment from word go, but no HP at all.
It seams to be a bit of a freak with torque. I recently rode a water cooled back to back against my Gen 1, and they felt the same in low down torque, and it had more power up top too.
 All I`ve done to it is, take off the stubbie  Yosh that was on it, as it was to loud, and put on my own modified standard pipe, and lift the needles, and it now is very torquey.

So I don`t know if I`ve answered your question, apart from it being a work in progress.   I still like riding it though, it has a good mid to top end rush, with a lot of untapped power still to be acquired.
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Post  truck Sat 28 Mar 2015, 11:19 pm

Thanks for the reply and detailed info MB. I am not game to do more than change the oils in my old '02, so I am keen to hear of other Bandits that have been modified and how they work out.
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Post  mtbeerwah Fri 17 Jul 2015, 5:59 pm

out with old,in with new Ccf17010
Ok, so had another go at the dyno thing.
Still haven`t finished playing with it yet.
I was going to put the standard cams back in, but didn`t get to it.
Why..well time is money on the dyno, and that's what stopped them going back in.
Result so far, more power than I will ever use, lacking in that instant torque we all like. But if I want it to go, it takes a milli second to knock it back a cog and I`m moving very quickly.
So the chart speaks for itself.

The cams are set at 102 IN  104.5 EX    Not what is written on the dyno chart
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Post  paul Fri 17 Jul 2015, 7:20 pm

That's quite a difference ...................I take it the torque figure is in ft -lb ?................still should pack quite a wallop Very Happy

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Post  mtbeerwah Fri 17 Jul 2015, 8:27 pm

paul wrote:That's quite a difference ...................I take it the torque figure is in ft -lb ?................still should pack quite a wallop Very Happy

yeah paul, 89.4 ft-lb
about 121nm
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Post  Chettlingham Fri 17 Jul 2015, 9:46 pm

Looks good mate!

Is the dip at 5.4k common on the 1200?

Fred mentioned he had spent the day pouring over a 1200 when I dropped mine off. I thought it might ha e been yours.

Mine looks good at 127hp and 93ft/lbs, can't wait to pick her up tomorrow for the ride home.

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Post  mtbeerwah Fri 17 Jul 2015, 11:47 pm

Chettlingham wrote:Looks good mate!

Is the dip at 5.4k common on the 1200?

Fred mentioned he had spent the day pouring over a 1200 when I dropped mine off. I thought it might ha e been yours.

Mine looks good at 127hp and 93ft/lbs, can't wait to pick her up tomorrow for the ride home.


Yeah mate, that was mine. I had two bikes getting done.

The dip is a combination of things, mostly that its vacuumed carbed running through an aibox, and not FI.

With the set up I`ve got and the gix cams, although they are just mild,  this is the first time I`ve started to play with the airbox, and its hard to get it perfect without up setting some part of the graph.
I`m not doing airbox mods like Dale Walker from Holeshot, but my own experiment, playing with an airbox venturi set up
Soon as you fix one part, you affect another part, and this is a balance of playing with these carbs, and the airbox.
Although it looks dramatic, its not.
When normal ridding, I don`t take it above 4500rpm. But if I`m under it, I`m ridding between 5500 and 8500, and don`t notice it. And the only time I`m going straight through that dip, is in 1st or 2nd, and it darts past it with a blink of an eye. But if cruising, and want to go quick now, knock it back a gear, and you not in that zone any how, so its not an issue. 
I don`t really need 144HP, and this isn`t the end of playing. I will get round to putting the stock cams back in, so I pick up more bottom end, to sacrifice top end, and still have lots of airbox playing to do.
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