Secondaries removal views ?

First topic message reminder :

'Crimsondawn' has been told by an ATRE seller that with installing their unit there is no need to remove the secondaries. What expeiences has anyone had with theirs ? My removal was nothing but GREAT !

If you do a nice neat cut job on the lid, you could always put it back on with some duct tape on each side. Not a bid deal really.

I use a " DNA " filter. Will last the life of your bike. Yes you do have to clean them and reoil them periodically. No big deal.

I just whacked another OEM filter in mine last week.
I have spent $36 in air filters in 30, 000 km

The trouble with the OEM filters is that they do not allow enough air through that some mods require. Alright if you leave your Bandit std, but just fitting an aftermarket flow thru can means that the air flow will be unbalanced with an OEM filter. JMO.

Mate I agree. The FZ has a K&N

My point was there isn't any point in fitting one just for the hell of it and thinking the OEM wasn't any good.

My point is that every action has a reaction. It's like baking a cake. If all the ingredience are not added, then the outcome will not be satisfactory.

Yes the K&N needs oiling, but it's a fair distance between drinks, from their web site:
Quote...

4. How often do I need to clean my K&N air
filter?

If you have not experienced a decrease in mileage or engine performance,
chances are your filter is fine and does not yet need cleaning. To be more
specific, the filter does not require cleaning if you can still see the wire
screen on the entire air filter regardless of how dirty it may appear. When the
screen is no longer visible some place on the filter, it is time to clean it.
When used in normal paved road, street or highway conditions, our replacement
air filters that fit in the factory air box should require cleaning every 50,000
miles and our large conical filters on an intake system should require cleaning
every 100,000 miles. When used in dusty or off-road environments, our filters
will require cleaning more often. We recommend that you visually inspect your
filter once every 25,000 miles to determine if the screen is still visible.

Unquote.

The other little trick to allow more air is to use the 1200 filter (Part No SU-6000) instead of the 1250 (SU-6505), for some reason the later model has about 10% less filter surface:

That k and n excerpt is bullshit. Mine gets a clean every oil change. It is simple with the cleaning kit.

reddog wrote:That k and n excerpt is bullshit. Mine gets a clean every oil change. It is simple with the cleaning kit.

+1

crimsondawn Today at 8:19 pm

There is 3 times the weight in the 1250 filter. Wonder what's going on there?

More Rubber, Less paper!

The weight difference is equivilant to whether you have a chocy milk for morno's or not

But because it is a slow Friday night (opps Saturday morning) here are a couple of differences I can see:

1. There is approx 20 ridges in the 1250 unit, 24 in the 1200, thats 20% less paper (or more rubber), .
2. The 1250 unit also has more rubber arround the edge of the filter area.
3. The oil kit is 23% larger.

So my original 10% is a little low, looks like it is 20% more rubber/less paper, as Reardo said above.

I think the reason for the additional rubber was to improve (decrease) air turbulance with the original snorkle and filter top, with the restricted breathing caused by the secondaries and OEM exhaust it probably helped with improved mileage or caused less induction noise. That all goes out the window when you start making the Bandit breath easier with the "go-fast" changes. As I have mentioned before, I'm not a mechanic so please feel free to correct any of these assumptions

crimsondawn wrote:I know that was probably tongue in cheek, but 10% less surface area doesn't add up to 60% more weight .

Edit: Barry said it 10x better then me, So to save face. I deleted my post.

Just remove the three bolts holding the radiator on. Then pull the radiator forward a little. I put a small rope around the back of it and tied it off to the forks. makes it a little easier to work. Be careful not to scratch the front frame. It is a pretty easy install if you follow the instructions.

Not sure if the 1200 one fits.

Yep - fits fine:



The only thing left of my airbox top is the ridge to keep the filter in place, doesn't seem to have caused any issues other than pushing the dyno numbers up. I did buy a new top just in case it went sour, still got it sitting on the work bench.

Mine was starving for fuel arround this area according to the dyno-tune readout, had to have a bit more fuel added...



It was also running a bit too rich just past this a low throttle settings, that would cause it to bog down as well if it wasn't leaned off.

Unless you know a lot about how your EFI box workes, you really need to put it on the dyno to get the max out of these upgrades.

If you haven't add a power commander or TFI you need to get one or it'll be shit. Yes they run lean around those rpm for emissions reasons

The same here with the fueling.
Hey Barry, Why is you fuel map run all the way up to 11000rpm. Did your tuner start with GSF1200 map as a base?

Not sure what he used as the base, must have been an awesome machine, would have had to have been another red one I'd say

The Rev Limiter came in on que at 9500 on every pull. There was a little discrepencicy between the dyno tach and the PC-V as I mentioned here

Are you now a believer Neo ? Welcome to the Matrix.

I originally had a TRE set to 5th, and a Delkevic can well before going TFi and Stage II. I found the surging stopped and it fueled much crisper throughout the rev range. However, removing the secondaries and opening the airbox up certainly took it up a notch. Well worth doing both IMO. In fact, the first thing I'll do when I buy another bike is take out the secondaries immediately, before I do anything else. They are simply the net-nanny of the engine world, designed to stop noobs looping their bikes in the lower gears.

the devil has visited      

Mpottsy wrote:the devil has visited      

Certainly has, and he has put your exhaust and rear brake on the wrong side!

And with a couple of clicks everything is back as it should be PHEW

Okay final checks

4x ally disks 
8x very tinny tiny screw 
Air Box cut open fully
TFi set to stage two
Connectors are secure
Fuel lines and breathers
Fairing back on
-COO
Nothing left on the work bench

Okay now for a test ride

Ok, you had 3 days for that ride.  Didja like the results?