Batteries

Has anyone tried a AGM battery & if so what are they like ?

https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/gel-vs-agm.html

I wouldn't bother. Just use the cheap lead acid stuff. I've tried lithium and it's failed 18 months later. Gel cell similar

I had heard the Gel ones don't last  & hadn't really thought much about Lithium  , but know little about  the AGM ones ..............I was a bit skeptical so thought I would ask  , you are probably right about using the lead acid one .

Either one over lead acid is great, all's "lead acid" batteries do is accelerate oxidisation of metal parts.

Whatever extra Gel/AGM cost, it will be minimal in the long run compared to the damage that Lead acid will do.

rodent4 wrote:Either one over lead acid is great, all's "lead acid" batteries do is accelerate oxidisation of metal parts.

Whatever extra Gel/AGM cost, it will be minimal in the long run compared to the damage that Lead acid will do.

I don't think the lead acid battery (assuming it is the sealed type) is the cause of most corrosion.

From my observation, most modern jap bikes used return wires from each circuit back to the battery which should minimise current flow through the frame components.

The reason for doing so is to avoid current flow through dissimilar metals, steel frame, bronze swingarm bushes and aluminium swing arm being a good example.

The only unavoidable circuit is through the starter motor which only operates momentarily.

I think a lot of aftermarket accessories (driving lights come to mind), could be possible causes where they are bolted "metal to metal" leading to current paths through the frame.

Ive used AGM batteries in my 4x4's for years and get great service out of them , I cant see any reason they would be less reliable in a bike

On further investigation , it seems there is cheaper  , or dearer AGM's.............not that they are very expensive anyway . The cheaper ones tend to have a lower CCA ( around 175 ) , and a lot of the others are around 250 to 285 . I spoke to our local SSB distributor , & they sell an updated one now for want of a better description with CCA 340 . The cost is $80 , so I will give it a go , & maybe invest in a  maintenance  charger seeing as my rides have gone from daily  to weekly . Time will tell I suppose , but these have good reports with long standby time ,  their only problem is if you let them run right down because of lack of use combined with  having something using the power in the background ( accessory ) they don't like recharging, & will be pretty much stuffed . 
This is the battery .............

https://superstart.com.au/rtz14-s-high-peformance-agm-motorcycle-battery.html

Are you replacing the OEM battery paul?


Just lately I get nervous after returning to work after a week away, my OEM lead acid is now 6 1/2 years old and hasn't shown any signs of slowing, I've never got much past 4 years before 

Chook wrote:Are you replacing the OEM battery paul?


Just lately I get nervous after returning to work after a week away, my OEM lead acid is now 6 1/2 years old and hasn't shown any signs of slowing, I've never got much past 4 years before 

Yes , it's the original battery from OCT 2010 ...................Although the bike fires up almost instantly , I have noticed that now I don't ride daily  & the cold weather is here , it is starting to crank over slower , all be it for only a short time , but I don't want it to die somewhere when I park on a ride and no where near home . The battery place is down your way at the bottom of Richmond road . .......................On A plus note , I just dragged out my charger & discovered it is a 6 or 12 volt trickle or heavy duty charge , and with an automatic cut off 

I bought my bike 3 months after that, 1/11, complianced 9/10 but I know it was delivered to Adelaide partially assembled in boxes the day before I took delivery

paul wrote:

Chook wrote:Are you replacing the OEM battery paul?


Just lately I get nervous after returning to work after a week away, my OEM lead acid is now 6 1/2 years old and hasn't shown any signs of slowing, I've never got much past 4 years before 

Yes , it's the original battery from OCT 2010 ...................Although the bike fires up almost instantly , I have noticed that now I don't ride daily  & the cold weather is here , it is starting to crank over slower , all be it for only a short time , but I don't want it to die somewhere when I park on a ride and no where near home . The battery place is down your way at the bottom of Richmond road . .......................On A plus note , I just dragged out my charger & discovered it is a 6 or 12 volt trickle or heavy duty charge , and with an automatic cut off 

Howdy Paul,
I think I may have posted this previously

How to decide if you need to replace your battery.

1. Find a battery supplier on top of a hill.
2. Ride to within about 1Km of said supplier.
3. Switch off your engine.
4. Push your bike uphill to the battery supplier.
5. Once you arrive (assuming you do!), ask yourself if it was worth the effort.
6. Stop being a tight ass and buy a new battery.

Incidentally, I regard a battery that lasts more than 2-3 years a real bonus.

AND, buy yourself a multi stage automatic battery charger to maintain YOUR NEW BATTERY in good condition. - unless you really enjoyed the journey to the battery dealer as described above.

BanditDave wrote:

paul wrote:

Chook wrote:Are you replacing the OEM battery paul?


Just lately I get nervous after returning to work after a week away, my OEM lead acid is now 6 1/2 years old and hasn't shown any signs of slowing, I've never got much past 4 years before 

Yes , it's the original battery from OCT 2010 ...................Although the bike fires up almost instantly , I have noticed that now I don't ride daily  & the cold weather is here , it is starting to crank over slower , all be it for only a short time , but I don't want it to die somewhere when I park on a ride and no where near home . The battery place is down your way at the bottom of Richmond road . .......................On A plus note , I just dragged out my charger & discovered it is a 6 or 12 volt trickle or heavy duty charge , and with an automatic cut off 

Howdy Paul,
I think I may have posted this previously

How to decide if you need to replace your battery.

1. Find a battery supplier on top of a hill.
2. Ride to within about 1Km of said supplier.
3. Switch off your engine.
4. Push your bike uphill to the battery supplier.
5. Once you arrive (assuming you do!), ask yourself if it was worth the effort.
6. Stop being a tight ass and buy a new battery.

Incidentally, I regard a battery that lasts more than 2-3 years a real bonus.

AND, buy yourself a multi stage automatic battery charger to maintain YOUR NEW BATTERY in good condition. - unless you really enjoyed the journey to the battery dealer as described above.

LOL , I thought this battery was never going to die .............probably the old adage of use it or lose it must apply here , I was doing a 25km each way commute every day until I retired at the end of DEC. , and have only been riding it mainly once weekly 100 to 200 km to blow away the cobwebs since then & have just started noticing the change lately .................................do you think I was given a dud battery when I bought the bike ?

My August 2010 bandit still has the original battery. I bought a new battery a year ago to replace the original - wanted to be on the safe side. I put it in my Norton Commando, temporarily while I checked the electrics and it has been there ever since. keep meaning to swap them over but   you know how it is with good intentions.

That's a good price on a 340 CCA battery Paul, I paid more than that for my Motobat MBTX9U and its only 160CCA.  The Motobat does have twin (or would you call it quad) terminals, two positive and two negative, this I find handy with all the extra electrical circuits I'm running.

Check out the CTEK multistage chargers at Repco, they have specials on every now and then where you can pick up the XS08's or the 5.0's.  You don't need more than the 0.8 for the bike, the 5.0 can handle a car battery if you want to.  I've now got three 0.8's and a 5.0 Test , got rid of all my other chargers.

A wise man once said batteries don't normally die, they are usually killed.  With the wrong charger or not charging properly you can easily ruin a new battery.

Howdy Paul,

Now that you are on a spending spree, it is time to buy a GOOD battery charger.

You will regret buying store brand chargers from Supercheap, Jaycar etc.

My advice is a Ctek MX5.0 which has 0.8amp and 5.0amp charge rates, ideal for both bike and car applications.

I just looked on Ebay and looks like the best price is around $116 including postage.

rodent4 wrote:Either one over lead acid is great, all's "lead acid" batteries do is accelerate oxidisation of metal parts.

Whatever extra Gel/AGM cost, it will be minimal in the long run compared to the damage that Lead acid will do.

Lets not forget that Gel and AGM are also Lead Acid batteries

Chook wrote:Are you replacing the OEM battery paul?


Just lately I get nervous after returning to work after a week away, my OEM lead acid is now 6 1/2 years old and hasn't shown any signs of slowing, I've never got much past 4 years before 

My battery was over 7years old when I traded. It had never given me any trouble. Also I believe the OEM battery was an AGM (sealed)
2 batteries in the Falcon both lasted over 6 years

Howdy Paul,

Providing you are comfortable with pushing vehicles, keep your original battery by all means.

The people offering alternative advice are probably not going to be anywhere close to you when you require some assistance (with pushing).

BTW I waited 3 hours some years ago for RACQ assistance although I was in the top service coverage.

Well , the deed is done ...............well almost ......bloody slack retirees , still have to fit it yet . I also ended up  buying the CTEK xs 0.8 charger ; as Barry said , Repco had it on special for $69    ( thanks Barry ) and as it's only for the bike , there should be no worries ( I already have one with all the bells & whistles to use for the car .)

The hand manual for my bike only says the battery is " maintenance free " , so until I swap them over , I don't know what type it was / is , but over 7 & 1/2 years is a sterling effort I thought .

You can’t go wrong with a ctek charger and be thankful you don’t own a euro bike that comes from the factory with a battery tender because they thought it a good idea to basically but 2 D cells in to crank a 13:1 compression engine and to cap it off the battery is under the tank

I think the original factory battery was the YUASA YT12A-BS.  This is a VRLA (Valve Regulated Lead Acid) , so not AGM or GEL. CCA is 175, 10.5 Ah.  Yuasa Spec Sheet

paul wrote:Well , the deed is done ...............well almost ......bloody slack retirees , still have to fit it yet . I also ended up  buying the CTEK xs 0.8 charger ; as Barry said , Repco had it on special for $69    ( thanks Barry ) and as it's only for the bike , there should be no worries ( I already have one with all the bells & whistles to use for the car .)

The hand manual for my bike only says the battery is " maintenance free " , so until I swap them over , I don't know what type it was / is , but over 7 & 1/2 years is a sterling effort I thought .

Well done, Paul on some fine purchases.

I guess the advantage of the 0.8amp charger is that it is only really useful with small batteries so friends and family are less likely to want to borrow it.