Bit of a worry ...................

I just changed my front & rear sprockets , 70,400 km & still not particularly worn or stuffed   but second chain , 34,000 first one ,the rest on the second one until it developed a tight spot ................or big loose spot , however you want to look at it .( I know you're supposed to always change them as a set , but considering the second chain lasted longer than the first , and how hard all weather commuting is on a chain , ........I don't always if the sprockets look ok. )
Now the front sprocket has red locktite , & is torqued up to 83 ft/lb , so when I undid it , I was expecting at least a bit of a crack , & some resistance the rest of the way (especially considering there is not a bent washer tag set up on the 1250 ) ......................nope ,nothing ......... it might as well have been finger tight , & the locktite must have gone off or something for all the resistance it put up . Oh well , better job done this time .

Wow, that is a complete contrast to my experience last chain & sprocket change. The front sprocket nut was so tight it required a breaker bar of 2m (possibly even slightly longer) to undo it. The crack was so loud when it let go that I thought something serious had snapped.  The worn set had been put on by a dealer by the way so they must have seriously tightened it.

Yep , I was kind of surprised to say the least 

So Paul.....did you use loctite again ??
I wouldn't put red loctite on. Did you get the correct lock washer ?

mtbeerwah wrote:So Paul.....did you use loctite again ??
I wouldn't put red loctite on. Did you get the correct lock washer ?

Yes I used the blue loctite . Mr Suzuki uses the red ,& just a flat washer on the 1250  according to the manual so it was original (& never been touched ). It might pay to to keep an eye on it & maybe source a lock washer if it looks like it is going to be a problem( I think the 1200 uses one ). Maybe mine was never torqued properly to start with   I didn't notice the usual dob of paint .

Mmmm....that's s bit strange, the flat washer thing.
Yeah, the 1200's use the lock washer. I think a better and simpler system. I've never had one come loose.
But if you say your set up is factory flat washer , maybe you should use red, for that instance. It is a high mechanical torque area, without a locking tab.
Red's got it's place in life, but I avoid using if I can.

It does seem an odd way to do it .................might just keep an eye on it , but no-one else has complained about it , so maybe just a one off .

If you've only used blue as a lock, you may want to keep an eye on it. Acceleration and deceleration, constantly shock loads the chain, which in turn shock loads the sprocket and the nut, so without a lock washer, may put the blue loctite through it's paces.

@Paul have you thought about adding a Scott oiler? I was about to do chain and sprockets around 30k mark due to tight chain links. Added a Scott oiler and it came loose within a few hundred KMs. Chain and sprockets still look new at 42000. Find a little bit of crap, but a wipe with a rag cleans the chain and the rim no problem

reddog wrote:@Paul have you thought about adding a Scott oiler? I was about to do chain and sprockets around 30k mark due to tight chain links. Added a Scott oiler and it came loose within a few hundred KMs. Chain and sprockets still look new at 42000. Find a little bit of crap, but a wipe with a rag cleans the chain and the rim no problem

I have heard they are fantastic , & shall give it some thought ..............fortunately my all weather commuting has now been reduced somewhat due to retirement 

paul wrote:

reddog wrote:@Paul have you thought about adding a Scott oiler? I was about to do chain and sprockets around 30k mark due to tight chain links. Added a Scott oiler and it came loose within a few hundred KMs. Chain and sprockets still look new at 42000. Find a little bit of crap, but a wipe with a rag cleans the chain and the rim no problem

I have heard they are fantastic , & shall give it some thought ..............fortunately my all weather commuting has now been reduced somewhat due to retirement 

For those who have retired and have lots of time on their hands ..............why not build your own electronic oiler?
I have made about 10 or so and after a couple of years they are still working fine.
Here are some of the parts required for a total of around $20 (the electronic scottoiler is a little more than this!!)

12volt solenoid
https://www.banggood.com/DC12V-6mm-Solenoid-Water-Gas-Valve-p-952671.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
timer module
https://www.banggood.com/DC-12V-LED-Display-Digital-Delay-Timer-Control-Switch-Module-PLC-p-910168.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
The remainder of your $20 will be used at Bunnings buying irrigation bits and pieces
Most tubing is 4mm as used for dripper irrigation
The reservoir is 500mm of 20mm clear PVC tubing
A few adaptors which are in the same area as the tubing
The "tubing" reservoir will hold about 150mL of your finest leftover oil (I'm currently running Motul 5100 'cos that was leftover from a previous oil change)
I have set the timer for 200 seconds which uses 50mL of oil for 2500Km.






The first one (mine) was a bit of a prototype hence the addition of some clear tubing.

I have a wiring diagram of the timer module in .pdf format. I will find some way to convert it and post it separately

Performance.
I used scottoiler spec of about 50mL of oil for 2500Kms so the tube reservoir should get you somewhere around the engine oil change interval

Here is the timer schematic

  You're not just a pretty face B.D.

paul wrote:  You're not just a pretty face B.D.

To be sure, to be sure!!

Now Paul, after your 'poppy nap' you can order the bits from China and visit Bunnings for the rest of the bits and pieces.

Just a note re nozzles.
I just twisted a bit of clothes hanger wire around a screwdriver and threaded the 4mm tube through it.
The wire attaches to the swing arm lug that is intended for the spools.
Bend the wire so the 4mm tube just about touches the outside of the sprocket.
The oil 'migrates' across the chain rollers so there is no need for sophisticated nozzles.

The strange loop in the tube along the swingarm
When the solenoid operates (less than 1 second every 200 seconds) it releases a drop of oil.
Without the loop, the drop takes about 1 minute to appear on the chain.
With the loop, the tube before it is permanently full of oil. The new drop of oil just displaces a single drop which appears within a few seconds.
Probably not at all important but ISLAGIATT (it seemed like a good idea at the time)