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noisey 06 bandit

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Post  meggens85 Sat 23 Apr 2016, 2:49 pm

Got my 06 bandit a month or so ago and had a bit of a ticky noise straight away i thought valves and pulled out the old manual and sorted them out they werent to bad a few to tight and a few a bit loose but all within range now but still i got this ticky noise got down on all 4s and had a listen around and noise seems to be coming from the alternator area has anyone else had this issue and is it bad or something ill have to live with seems not to make the noise when the bike is up and movin anything above 2000 rpm
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Post  mtbeerwah Sat 23 Apr 2016, 3:17 pm

Cam chain for sure. How many K's on the bike?
As they're a ratchet tensioner, sometimes before it goes to the next tooth and takes up tension,
they can get noisy.
If your game, you can make it go to the next tooth, but it can be a pain the arse.
You have to undo and remove the nut to access the tensioner, then push on the ratchet so it goes to the next tooth.
Once you remove the spring loaded nut, it's a test of patience to put the but back in, due to limited room.

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Post  meggens85 Sat 23 Apr 2016, 3:46 pm

Bikes got 40odd ks on it 
Where abouts is the cam chain tensioner and do i just push in on it once i remove the bolt
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Post  mtbeerwah Sat 23 Apr 2016, 4:11 pm

meggens85 wrote:Bikes got 40odd ks on it 
Where abouts is the cam chain tensioner and do i just push in on it once i remove the bolt

Bingo..that's when they start doing it.
At the back of the engine, in the middle, below the carbs, you'll see a nut, about 19mm.
You undo it, and take it out. Now...the nut is under "tension". When it's just about out,
you have to keep positive pressure on it, as it will go flying in any direction.
Putting something inside the hole, to physically push on it, is almost impossible,
You will have to use counter lever to force the ratchet in.
You will either hear, or feel it go to the next tooth.
When putting the nut back in, you have to put positive pressure back on the nut,
to start the thread, this is where it gets fun.
Hold your tongue right, and count to ten, and you will get it back in.

_________________
"Like an unmuddied lake, as clear as an azure sky of deepest summer"
96 Gen 1. Gone but not forgotten (5yrs RIP)
97 Gen 1. Restoring  (2yrs)
99 Gen 1. Impressed with.  (New)
03 Gen 2. Love hate relationship.  (15yrs)
07 DRZ 400e. Lot of fun with no power. 25 km/L  (4yrs)
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Post  mtbeerwah Sat 23 Apr 2016, 4:28 pm

Just another thing, this same scenario typically happens, when the tensioner, is getting near the end of its stroke,
due to the cam chain stretching.
The only positive guide is to pull the ratchet out, and see where it is on the stroke, to give you an indication of the life of your cam chain.
That involves removing the sprung loaded nut as said, then remove the two bolts either side of that, to remove the tensioner assembly.
You will then see where it is on the stroke. Removing the tensioner is easy. Only the main nut is a pain.
This will buy you a bit of time until the Cam chain needs replacing.

_________________
"Like an unmuddied lake, as clear as an azure sky of deepest summer"
96 Gen 1. Gone but not forgotten (5yrs RIP)
97 Gen 1. Restoring  (2yrs)
99 Gen 1. Impressed with.  (New)
03 Gen 2. Love hate relationship.  (15yrs)
07 DRZ 400e. Lot of fun with no power. 25 km/L  (4yrs)
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Post  meggens85 Sat 23 Apr 2016, 4:45 pm

Ok cool if i remove the whole assembly will i need a new gasket or is it a rubber oring type thing
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Post  mtbeerwah Sat 23 Apr 2016, 4:52 pm

meggens85 wrote:Ok cool if i remove the whole assembly will i need a new gasket or is it a rubber oring type thing

Correct, a gasket.
You may be able to get away with the same one, but they`re cheap, so may as well get a new one.

_________________
"Like an unmuddied lake, as clear as an azure sky of deepest summer"
96 Gen 1. Gone but not forgotten (5yrs RIP)
97 Gen 1. Restoring  (2yrs)
99 Gen 1. Impressed with.  (New)
03 Gen 2. Love hate relationship.  (15yrs)
07 DRZ 400e. Lot of fun with no power. 25 km/L  (4yrs)
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Post  meggens85 Sat 23 Apr 2016, 11:17 pm

Yeah thats cool no probs gettin a new one will just have to wait for peter stevens to order one in for me they never have what i want when i need it
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Post  mtbeerwah Sun 24 Apr 2016, 1:09 am

You will have to reset the ratchet before putting it back in.
Reason is, as its got some tension on it when you remove it, if its still in that position when you put it back in,
then your working against force.
When you pull the assembly out, you will see the small ratchet lever on the side of the toothed shaft,
it simply flips up so you can slide the shaft to its loosest position. Its self explanatory when you see it. 
When you put it back in,  push on the ratchet as hard as you can before using counter lever to tighten it, then use the counter lever method, to click it to the next tooth.
You may want to, before removing it, use the counter lever to tension it to the next tooth, so your familiar with the force needed when you re-tension for final fit up. Just make sure you evenly undo the two bolts at even pressure to avoid thread loading.
Alternately, if your really uncertain about what pressure needed, you can put the sprung nut back it to give it a base pressure setting, then take it out again, then click it to the next tooth. That would be mentally painful for me to do, but its up to you if your uncertain.

_________________
"Like an unmuddied lake, as clear as an azure sky of deepest summer"
96 Gen 1. Gone but not forgotten (5yrs RIP)
97 Gen 1. Restoring  (2yrs)
99 Gen 1. Impressed with.  (New)
03 Gen 2. Love hate relationship.  (15yrs)
07 DRZ 400e. Lot of fun with no power. 25 km/L  (4yrs)
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Post  meggens85 Sun 24 Apr 2016, 6:59 pm

Tensioned up the rachet got rid of a heap of the noise cheers for that cant hear the cam chain so bad any more might have to pull the tensioner out one day soon to check the cam chain
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Post  mtbeerwah Sun 24 Apr 2016, 8:35 pm

No worries mate.
Next time you start to hear it, you`d better pull it out and check it.
More than likely, this will happen sooner, rather than later.

_________________
"Like an unmuddied lake, as clear as an azure sky of deepest summer"
96 Gen 1. Gone but not forgotten (5yrs RIP)
97 Gen 1. Restoring  (2yrs)
99 Gen 1. Impressed with.  (New)
03 Gen 2. Love hate relationship.  (15yrs)
07 DRZ 400e. Lot of fun with no power. 25 km/L  (4yrs)
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Post  meggens85 Sun 24 Apr 2016, 10:55 pm

Yeah sweet as mt beerwah 
Have u ever done a can chain swap over and how involved is that for a job 
Doable at home ?
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Post  mtbeerwah Sun 24 Apr 2016, 11:44 pm

Its definitely doable. Though the last time I did one, was the easy way, and that was when I rebuilt the engine.

When in situ though, you have to link the two chains together, meaning old chain to new chain, and while your pulling the old one out,
its threading the new one in, then join, and set your cam timing.  DON`T DROP ANYTHING DOWN INSIDE.
You should change your guides while your at it.
You need a chain breaker/riveter to do the job.

_________________
"Like an unmuddied lake, as clear as an azure sky of deepest summer"
96 Gen 1. Gone but not forgotten (5yrs RIP)
97 Gen 1. Restoring  (2yrs)
99 Gen 1. Impressed with.  (New)
03 Gen 2. Love hate relationship.  (15yrs)
07 DRZ 400e. Lot of fun with no power. 25 km/L  (4yrs)
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Post  mtbeerwah Mon 25 Apr 2016, 12:03 am

here`s a link to someone having a crack at it

http://moto.lexp.net/wiki/Cam_Chain_Replacement_on_Suzuki_GSF1200_Bandit

_________________
"Like an unmuddied lake, as clear as an azure sky of deepest summer"
96 Gen 1. Gone but not forgotten (5yrs RIP)
97 Gen 1. Restoring  (2yrs)
99 Gen 1. Impressed with.  (New)
03 Gen 2. Love hate relationship.  (15yrs)
07 DRZ 400e. Lot of fun with no power. 25 km/L  (4yrs)
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Post  Masterblaster Mon 25 Apr 2016, 12:39 am

Your cam chain should be fine, what you needs is APE manual cam chain adjuster which fixed the noise in mine.

It is better not to trust the Suzuki OEM adjuster as the can back off in certain conditions.

If you need to know anymore about the APE adjuster yell out as I fitted one to my 05 1200s about 12-18 months ago and it is running sweet withy the original cam chain.

63k kms on mine and it has never run stronger on my daily work commutes or the occasional red line blast.

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Post  mtbeerwah Mon 25 Apr 2016, 7:11 am

I agree with Masterblaster, that a manual tensioner is the better and cheaper way to go.

I`ve got one still sitting in its pack, but it won`t come out until I need it.

I`ve got one on my DRZ, and they`re simple to adjust. Wind them in until the slap stops when the engine is running. Done
They require constant tightening, but its an easy thing to do, and only takes seconds to tighten.

_________________
"Like an unmuddied lake, as clear as an azure sky of deepest summer"
96 Gen 1. Gone but not forgotten (5yrs RIP)
97 Gen 1. Restoring  (2yrs)
99 Gen 1. Impressed with.  (New)
03 Gen 2. Love hate relationship.  (15yrs)
07 DRZ 400e. Lot of fun with no power. 25 km/L  (4yrs)
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Post  Masterblaster Mon 25 Apr 2016, 1:37 pm

mtbeerwah wrote:I agree with Masterblaster, that a manual tensioner is the better and cheaper way to go.

I`ve got one still sitting in its pack, but it won`t come out until I need it.

I`ve got one on my DRZ, and they`re simple to adjust. Wind them in until the slap stops when the engine is running. Done
They require constant tightening, but its an easy thing to do, and only takes seconds to tighten.

The optimum setting for mine after a lot of trial & error was turning the motor over by hand via the R/H end of the crank with the ignition cover removed whilst tightening the CC adjuster bolt by hand.

Once the bolt is finger tight back off a 1/4 turn and then tighten the locknut (without changing the position of the adjuster bolt)

When I first noticed noise at 3k-4k rpm when my OEM adjuster was still fitted it sounded like marbles rumbling around inside a glass jar. After fitting the APE unit I still had a minor noise which turned to be the R/H centre stand bolt which had come loose and it head was resting against the exhaust causing rattling at certain revs.

I had originally thought that this noise was the baffle in the Staintune muffler or the R/H rear footpeg rattling.

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Post  Masterblaster Mon 25 Apr 2016, 1:39 pm

I forgot to mention that you also get a rumble at idle from the alternator area on these bikes and it is nothing to worry about.

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Post  Masterblaster Mon 25 Apr 2016, 2:04 pm

mtbeerwah wrote:I agree with Masterblaster, that a manual tensioner is the better and cheaper way to go.

I`ve got one still sitting in its pack, but it won`t come out until I need it.

I`ve got one on my DRZ, and they`re simple to adjust. Wind them in until the slap stops when the engine is running. Done
They require constant tightening, but its an easy thing to do, and only takes seconds to tighten.

The manual adjusters shouldn't require constant tightening. The only reason I can see this happening is if it has been adjusted too tightly and the chain is chewing into the guides.

The rate of stretch in the average Bandit cam chain should be minimal & linear unless you are really hammering the motor, drag racing etc 

The 1st time I removed the rocker cover on mine I was impressed at how meaty the cam chain was and I think if you are using quality oil with regular changes the CC should give a long service life.

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Post  mtbeerwah Mon 25 Apr 2016, 2:20 pm

I'm not talking every week, but as it hasn't got constant pressure, only a fixed pressure,
naturally the chain will stretch, and you will hear it slapping again.
I'm happy to do the , run engine and tighten method.
This is real time tightening.

_________________
"Like an unmuddied lake, as clear as an azure sky of deepest summer"
96 Gen 1. Gone but not forgotten (5yrs RIP)
97 Gen 1. Restoring  (2yrs)
99 Gen 1. Impressed with.  (New)
03 Gen 2. Love hate relationship.  (15yrs)
07 DRZ 400e. Lot of fun with no power. 25 km/L  (4yrs)
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Post  meggens85 Mon 25 Apr 2016, 5:10 pm

Masterblaster wrote:I forgot to mention that you also get a rumble at idle from the alternator area on these bikes and it is nothing to worry about.
Yeah seems to make a bit of noise from alternator/ cluch cover area
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