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2010 1250 Efi Mods?

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2010 1250 Efi Mods? Empty 2010 1250 Efi Mods?

Post  Oz17ub Sat 05 Mar 2016, 10:00 pm


Looking at doing some small tweaks if possible for that little extra squeeze of power.

Just wanting to know what works and what stages of modifications can be done to the 1250 injected motors without damaging anything or causing a snowball of mods there after.
Im thinking the standard air intake and a tune.

Cheers

Oz17ub

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Post  #Tag Sun 06 Mar 2016, 9:51 am

The Two Brothers end can you have and a hi flow air filter (if you don't have one already, just replace the oem paper air filter at the next service) are the quick and easy steps.
Anecdotally this gives an increase of 5-10 hp in the Bandits.

The next stage of mods (airbox modification, secondary throttle plate removal, aftermarket headers, PAIR blockoff, O2 sensor removal, TRE) is more complex and you need time, basic mechanical skills and a good range of tools to perform these yourself.

Dynotuning will cost between $500-1000 for a fuel controller and a dynotune run and usually doesn't give as much power gain as physical mods but smooths throttle response and removes fuelling irregularities. A dynotune is specific to your engines state of modification and any further changes throws it out.
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Post  Oz17ub Sun 06 Mar 2016, 10:17 pm

Its due for a 24k service so the air filter and box mod will be done shortly. With the secondary throttle plates obviously the air to fuel is going to vmbe way out which then calls for the o2 sensor mod and PAIR mod ( which is what exactly? Lol im a newb on these acronyms and bikes aswell to be fair )
As far as basic mech knowledge and tools ive got that covered no dramas. Heavy fitter and machinist by trade. 

Cheers for the wise words mate

Oz17ub

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Post  #Tag Mon 07 Mar 2016, 12:05 am

The oxygen sensor mod stops the fuel injection operating in closed loop mode. The closed loop mode only operates at relatively low revs and throttle openings and is only intended to help pass emission regulations. In closed loop the ecu receives a signal from the oxygen sensor and will lean the mix according to what info it receives. The O2 mod sends a signal telling the ecu that exhaust conditions are just fine, thank you, and you can go about running the motor normally. Open loop runs the base fuel map with no input from exhaust sensors.

The PAIR system injects air into the exhaust manifold to reduce emissions. PAIR blockoff kits do just that - block it. Practically the only difference is bikes with filters and end cans will often pop and crackle on decel with the PAIR operating and the blockoff will usually stop that. I removed mine to reduce clutter on top of the motor to make maintenance easier (but miss the cackling Crying or Very sad

The only time secondary throttle plate removal gives noticeably better air flow is between 7 & 8000rpm where the secondaries cause turbulence and a 5hp dip in the stock power curve.
Fuel mapping shows large fuel additions at these revs to account for increased air flow. At other revs it alters throttle response so read up on it and see if you want to do it or not.
(my personal thoughts are - it gives faster throttle response but I think its also responsible for my bikes somewhat unwanted characteristic of continuing at full steam when reducing large throttle openings at mid to high revs. That is I have to reduce throttle opening to below 75% before it shows any sign of easing up. My guess is that the secondaries would normally close first at high revs/throttle settings, so with them removed it shows a much greater willingness to continue at full noise. Keep in mind that I am just a backyarder and my opinions may, or may not, be utter horse shit)
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Post  Oz17ub Thu 10 Mar 2016, 10:17 pm

Saweeeeet!


Righto so im thinking the air box mod is a must along with the o2 sensor and PAIR blockoff. 
Ive read the blockoff can be done without the kit just by cutting and capping the hoses off. 

Whos the best supplier for the o2 sensor?

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Post  Hammy Fri 11 Mar 2016, 8:57 am

Oz17ub wrote:Saweeeeet!


Righto so im thinking the air box mod is a must along with the o2 sensor and PAIR blockoff. 
Ive read the blockoff can be done without the kit just by cutting and capping the hoses off. 

Whos the best supplier for the o2 sensor?
You're right about the block off, but, There is an awful amount of anti polution plumbing crap that sits on top of the motor that needs to go.

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Post  #Tag Fri 11 Mar 2016, 5:05 pm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oxygen-lambda-o2-sensor-eliminator-Suzuki-GSF-Bandit-1250-/260961308774 This came up on the first googling. Have a wander round the internet, you may come up with a closer supplier.

Our resident Ewok recently plugged his PAIR with roof and gutter sealant and has since been experimenting with boring it out with progressively larger holes to introduce just the right amount of exhaust crackling to make him fizz.

I used a blockoff kit to get rid of all the plumbing as Hammy just pointed out.
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Post  Ewok1958 Fri 11 Mar 2016, 5:50 pm

I quit the experiment when I installed the Delkevics and removed the O2 sensor. I did install an O2 eliminator plug to stop the FI light coming on. I've left all of the ugly PAIRS plumbing in place (for the time being).
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Post  reddog Sun 13 Mar 2016, 6:01 pm

Get rid of the plumbing mate. Makes it a much less busy place when you need to remove the tank for servicing
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Post  Oz17ub Sun 27 Mar 2016, 10:12 am

Ok so the plan is get the o2 sensor plug cut the 2" hole in the sirbox renove snorkel k&n filter and see how we go. Removing the secondaries worries me abit but i do see the point in doing it. But to me that will cause for a dyno tune. And the PAIRS system will be blocked left as im partial to the backfire on decel

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Post  #Tag Mon 28 Mar 2016, 7:01 pm

If you want crackling (mmmm, crackling) you have to leave the PAIR sytem active.
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Post  Oz17ub Mon 28 Mar 2016, 10:21 pm

Sounds good to me

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