secondaries removal help

Ok guys after reading a whole lotta posts i decided to gove the secondary removals a try.. all went somewhat well.. took a bit longer then expected after a whole lotta undoing this unclamping that turn this bang that (expression not actually banging) finally got the throttle bodies out..and something i seem to have overlooked is how to remove the screws from the butterflies.......


Whats peoples suggestions and how can i undo these screws..i have refit the throttle bodies tonight as i plan on doing a 300km trip tomorrow..when i get home ill be re attempting it..what do i need guys

You need to heat the screws to melt the solder holding them in first ..............

try this link 

https://nswbandits.forumotion.net/t1086-devils-work

Tht explains alot. Thnks paul

The correct screw driver too!
Probably covered in the link, but very important. 
The screws are made of cheese and if a little bit of Loctite is still clinging on, the heads burr very easily if you don't have the perfect fitting screw driver.  Then you're into multi grip territory.  

The last page of that thread has this photo by NTBill, it shows a pencil torch and a "0" phillips screw driver, both from JAY-CAR.  Much cheaper than trying to source the JIS screw drivers mentioned in other threads.  



Heat the screw (not the screw driver) for 15-20 seconds and then try to undo, if it is too hard, try a bit more heat - what you are trying to do with the heat is break the hold of the loctite used to secure the screws.  Keep the screw driver right over the screw and perpendicular so there is maximum contact.  Take it nice and slowly and you should get all 8 screws without any hassle.

Thanks again barry.

Going for a short ride to tin can bay tomorrow so will get supplies on my way home luckily theres a jaycar distributor here on the sunny coast

If your finding it really tough, the screws are actually JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard), not Phillips.

Any screw you see with a single dot marked in the head is JIS. (Often the screws used in your brake and clutch reservoir covers and carb/ throttle body).

Phillips are designed as an assembly fitting and the grind on the screwdriver head is meant to force the driver out of the screw before it strips or shears the thread.
JIS drivers will hold in the screw longer.

Thanks tag..but i just purchased a set of precision screwdrivers has size 000 size 00 size 0 size 1 etc phillps will these works also a pencil torch

I ordered a set of JIS from the US, but it took so long to get here I used the JAY-CAR screw driver and mini-torch.  I had no hassles and all the screws came out without any problems, but others have had screws strip their heads or broken off.

Here is the difference between the JIS on the left and the JAY-CAR on the right, you can see the JIS is a much better manufactured tool and it would stand up to a lot more abuse than the cheaper version.

I'd never taken much notice before but I can see what #Tag is on about.

The  JIS head appears to be ground to fit much deeper in the screw, if you used a Phillips bit in a JIS screw (or visa versa) you would not get full contact between the driver and screw.

The Jap's were never much for inventing things but have always been great at improving what the Poms and Yanks thought rough enough is good enough, this is just another good example.

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/cef476f56ae0da7af4862bceadda0b6e.jpg

When it really gets to ya, this works well

what im gonna to try and do it with