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Loctite Help

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kewwig
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Post  2wheelsagain Sat 25 Feb 2012, 7:53 pm

Is there a reversing agency for Loctite?
Usually with nuts, bolts & studs you just over power the stuff but i have a couple of screws that appear stuck and i don't want to stuff the Phillips heads. The plan is to replace them with SS hex bolts so they can be stuffed getting them out but not before.
So what undoes Loctite?

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Post  gus Sat 25 Feb 2012, 7:58 pm

A hammer and one of those screwdriver you hit .Senior moment ,good to see you back buy the way .
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Post  Rustic Sat 25 Feb 2012, 8:00 pm

2wheelsagain wrote:Is there a reversing agency for Loctite?
Usually with nuts, bolts & studs you just over power the stuff but i have a couple of screws that appear stuck and i don't want to stuff the Phillips heads. The plan is to replace them with SS hex bolts so they can be stuffed getting them out but not before.
So what undoes Loctite?

Hi there 2Wheels

When I was engineering we always used heat, mind you will depend on the size of the thread and bolts. I goggled it and this was the best answer...

http://www.ehow.com/how_5201363_remove-loctite-bolts.html
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Post  2wheelsagain Sat 25 Feb 2012, 8:01 pm

gus wrote:A hammer and one of those screwdriver you hit .Senior moment ,good to see you back buy the way .
No can do the impact driver way. Very delicate location $1000 if it goes wrong Embarassed

Heat's not an option either.

Its the two bottom radiator guard bolts on the FZ.
Straight through the core if it goes wrong..............


Last edited by 2wheelsagain on Sat 25 Feb 2012, 8:06 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post  Rustic Sat 25 Feb 2012, 8:02 pm

gus wrote:A hammer and one of those screwdriver you hit .Senior moment ,good to see you back buy the way .

Impact wrench Wink
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Post  dhula Sat 25 Feb 2012, 8:04 pm

what is it on/where is it
Pics might help.
Can you get to the other side of the screw (ie, it's an open hole) so you can use something that might wick into the thread area?

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Post  gus Sat 25 Feb 2012, 8:06 pm

Thats it .I'm a bit of a fan of that tool ,even in delicate locations .Sounds worrying .
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Post  2wheelsagain Sat 25 Feb 2012, 8:08 pm

dhula wrote:what is it on/where is it
Pics might help.
Can you get to the other side of the screw (ie, it's an open hole) so you can use something that might wick into the thread area?

Captive nut on the back Mad

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Post  Rustic Sat 25 Feb 2012, 8:12 pm

[quote="2wheelsagain"]
gus wrote:

Heat's not an option either.

Its the two bottom radiator guard bolts on the FZ.
Straight through the core if it goes wrong..............

worse case drill it out using a left hand screwed drill.

Hole punch the centre
Start with a fine drill then get larger - Put a stop neck on to prevent over drilling
the heat and left hand action will also help to remove and may also actually unscrew.

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Post  gus Sat 25 Feb 2012, 8:15 pm

Sounds like a escaped psycho prisoner as pillion .What is it .
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Post  mtbeerwah Sat 25 Feb 2012, 8:17 pm

are they countersunk,if not maybe some vicegrips if you can`t get a screwdriver in
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Post  2wheelsagain Sat 25 Feb 2012, 8:23 pm

mtbeerwah wrote:are they countersunk,if not maybe some vicegrips if you can`t get a screwdriver in
Yah vice grips might work I'm sure they only have to crack to be free.
I don't "need" the Rad guard off but I'd like to be able to get it off if i had too. Hence the replacement with SS Alen head bolts.

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Post  aussie Sat 25 Feb 2012, 9:41 pm

Two suggestions which may help and I have used them in the past. BWW must have shares in the company because they use the stuff on everything.

1. You can buy a Loctite product which dissolves the old product. Use it like WD40- put it on and let it wick into the threads. Then unscrew as normal.

2. Apply heat directly to the head of the screw which softens the loctite. Take the flux off an arc welding rod and strike an arc on the head of the screw. The heat goes straight into the contact point and it will get very hot very quickly.

Are you sure it is Loctited? Seems strange to use it on a non-critical bolt which is not effected by vibration etc. Have you tried to remove them when the radiator is hot after a long run? The alloy in the radiator expands more than the metal screw so it maybe easier to remove.

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Post  BanditDave Sun 26 Feb 2012, 6:45 am

1. A product for electronic servicing Electrolube FRE is a pressure pack of freezing agent. I have had some success with small screws. Available from Jaycar/Dick Smith type shops.
2. EzyOut

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Post  Kaupy1962 Sun 26 Feb 2012, 10:49 am

Acetone is the only reversing agent that I know of.
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Post  2wheelsagain Sun 26 Feb 2012, 11:28 am

Kaupy1962 wrote:Acetone is the only reversing agent that I know of.
So I should break out my nail polishing kit Smile

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Post  Kaupy1962 Sun 26 Feb 2012, 1:37 pm

Not Quite mate. The acetone in nail polish does work, but it a bit weaker.
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Post  dhula Sun 26 Feb 2012, 1:46 pm

you can get a small can of acetone from bunnings (or mitre 10, or the two dogs or where ever). also get yourself a small syringe from the chemist so you are accurate in you application. A drop or two at a time will most likely wick in and kill the threadlocking compound

WD40 or similar can also have an effect (have a look thru the CRC products list) and if it is just frozen in place and not threadlocked in this is the best starting point as these types of products usually don't have a negative effect of other surfaces

you could try brake-clean as it may break down the threadlocker

another product you could try is chisel (click here or here) so long as you can apply it without effecting another part as it can be pretty aggressive on some things

heat similar to taking out the 2nd flys may work also

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Post  kewwig Sun 26 Feb 2012, 2:58 pm

Careful with the acetone on any painted surface. It's quite aggressive on some finishes.
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Post  2wheelsagain Sun 04 Mar 2012, 12:00 pm

Well success today after soaking the threads in WD40 for a week Smile
The right hand side screw let go with a serious "crack" but the left hand side dared me to stuff the screw head and resort to the "drill and pray method". Like a Star @ heaven
My drill and pray method comprised of an easy-out kit and 2.5mm drill going about 1/4 of the way into the screw. At that point I thought I'd give the large screw driver a shot as I had nothing to lose and f^@& me it let go with a crack too so the easy-outs weren't required. Talk about a sense of relief cheers
Loctite Help 2012-03-04%252011.15.16
I'll be stopping at the bolt shop tomorrow and getting a couple of SS Allen headed bolts.


Loctite Help 2012-03-04%252011.16.19
Screws replaced with bolts for now.

Thanks for everyone's advice Cool

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Post  Kaupy1962 Sun 04 Mar 2012, 2:17 pm

Have you seen the quick ezy out that looks like one of those hex screwdriver bits? It has a left hand drill tip and an easyout thread right behind that. Awesome for removing tight screws and some snapped off bolts.
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Post  geekay007 Fri 09 Mar 2012, 10:29 am

If possible, use a microbutane torch. A solvent like nail polish remover may work. Heat has always worked for me.

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Post  2wheelsagain Fri 09 Mar 2012, 10:31 am

geekay007 wrote:If possible, use a microbutane torch. A solvent like nail polish remover may work. Heat has always worked for me.
Extraction complete Smile

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Post  Kaupy1962 Sat 10 Mar 2012, 4:51 pm

Well done
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Post  Cameron Sat 10 Mar 2012, 5:13 pm

Have you tried swearing at it yet?

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