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Delo 400 oil

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dhula
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scopebud
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Post  scopebud Mon 22 Aug 2011, 8:47 pm

hi guys just wanted to get your opinion on this oil all report say its good just wanted your views on http://www.netrider.net.au/forums/showthread.php?t=74009&page=39
hope thats ok thanks in advance bounce Premium performance, multigrade, heavy-duty diesel engine oil specifically designed to lubricate a wide range of diesel and gasoline engines requiring API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, SL, ACEA E7 or JASO DH-1
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Post  2wheelsagain Mon 22 Aug 2011, 9:39 pm

I know a netrider who uses it in a ZX9 and another in a SV1000 and have done for several years. I love an oil debate! Personally I go for oil that has a bike on the bottle but that's just me.

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Post  scopebud Mon 22 Aug 2011, 10:23 pm

thanks 2 wheels yeah im sold on the idea just wanted to get some opinions and looking at all the options Smile
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Post  dhula Tue 23 Aug 2011, 12:41 am

While there are many reports out there of bikes using delo 400 with satisfactory results. The caltex wesite says it is not suitable for motorbike engines
Not saying it isn't good oil or doesn't work in bike engines but the question I ask is why do caltex say that you shouldn't
Find a suitable answer that makes you happy and IMO use it to your hearts content.

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Post  reddog Tue 23 Aug 2011, 2:20 pm

So Dhula, is this the stuff you use in your bikes?

I've used Delo 400 in my old 2004 Navara turbo diesel and it worked well. I woudln't be surprised if it worked fine in a bike as well.
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Post  scopebud Tue 23 Aug 2011, 2:41 pm

i was reading a post that said that the reason caltex says not recommended for bike was that they never tested it in a bike thus why not recommended scratch
though thanks for input much appreciated Very Happy
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Post  dhula Wed 24 Aug 2011, 12:08 am

reddog wrote:So Dhula, is this the stuff you use in your bikes?
No, never used Delo 400 in anything I own.
I have been and still use Valvoline products in our bikes.
As the new steed is not as picky as the Tiger was, I may just be going back to what I was using, although a little research may prove Delo a good choice but time will tell.

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Post  scopebud Wed 24 Aug 2011, 12:17 am

cool yeah ive been reading alot its doing my head in
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Post  potatomasher Wed 24 Aug 2011, 5:23 am

here's some comments about oil i copied and sent to scopbude from a guy on another site, who knows what he is talking about:


The Honda dealers are basing their comments on what is in the handbook.

All engine manufacturers are required to pass specific emmission tests before they can release new engines. To do this they use low viscosity oils which do provide a slight improvement in fuel efficiency, and therefore emmissions, but at the expense of engine wear. There have been a number of independent reports stressing the dangers of low viscosity oils.

Once the engines have passed their testing on a certain viscosity oil then they are required to recommend their ongoing use.

We also make a 10W30 so you are most welcome to use it but all my oil industry and bike experience says no.

A 10W30 will save you about 0.5 % fuel but slash your engine life by up to 30%...particularly if you get up the revs a bit.

Adam I'm happy to organize another tour when it suits.

I can assure you that operating temperatures are affected by lower ambients as the cooling rate is far more effective in lower temperatures.

European, North American and Japanese temperatures are often 20 degreesC lower than ours.

I'm not saying that if the recommendation is a 5W then go to a 20W but a one or two grade increase will give better protection without any risk of cavitation. You will soon know if you are using too high a viscosity in a bike because you will have trouble getting second and third gear for the first 15 or so minutes after start up.

If you are using the correct API ( American Petroleum Institute ) spec product with no friction modifiers, and appropriate viscosity, then you can forget Jaso licensing.

The API is a far more highly recognized authority and Jaso is just another license cost for the lube formulators to cover a relatively small volume market.

High quality engine oils have a significant content of ZDDP ( zinc anti wear ) which is what is required to protect high tooth loading pressures in bike gearboxes.

You will note that front wheel drive cars run engine oil for combined engine / transmission lubrication as well.

The bottom line is that unless a manufacturer is able to meet the mandated emission reductions.......they are not able to sell anything....full stop.

Deciding on a slight change or improvement in oil spec is just like deciding on any other aftermarket upgrade...led lights, carbon fibre, tail tidys, improved shocks etc, etc.

If you never ever ride your bike hard, flat change, wheelspin, mono, get stuck in heavy traffic on a hot Australian day etc. then you don't need to upgrade.

I know what level of protection I prefer to have.

Also you would have to go to at least three viscosity grades higher before you would risk oil cavitation

I'm in New Zealand at the moment and have just had Nathan on the line talking about oil for his new Blade and his dads Rav 4 and it's nice to hear of the good results that the members are getting.....and saving money.

You do not need to pay rip off prices...yes I'll repeat that....rip off prices....to buy high performance oils for your bike.

Many of the foreign owned companies have been looting riders for years with high margin products.

There has been a lot of NSW Riders who have been buying Gulf Western for some time now and all have been very happy with the results.

Ed, see what sort of response you get for this date and we will lock it in. Very Happy

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There is nothing wrong with the quality of products from other reputable oil blenders, however most multi nationals formulate for European and northern hemisphere conditions because that is where their largest volume markets are.

As we are an Australian based and owned blender we formulate specifically for our own conditions which is why our products usually offer higher film strenth and therefore better component protection .

Our products would not work as well in Germany at minus 10 C but that is not where they are designed for.

We also do not have to pay millions of dollars in license fees for logo usage and marketing support or operating royalties to an overseas parent company.... because we do not have one. Thus we are not liable for this added cost of doing business and are able to reflect that in our selling price.

We are also currently in a huge growth phase and work on fairly skinny margins in order to maintain our growth.

It is worth noting that oil companies do not do the research and development required to satisfy new automotive specifications.

There are a number of major technology / additive companies such as Lubrizol, Oronite, Afton etc who do the R and D necessary to develop new formulas when a new specification is about to be released by the various controlling bodies.

These companies develop the formula, have it tested then licensed then go to the market with their package.

Lube blenders then buy that technology (and the chemicals required) from thier preferred supplier and blend in the approved base oils within the parameters allowed to suit thier own performance, marketing and cost objectives.

The only major R and D done by most companies is in areas which are a bit unique such as food grade lubicants, cutting oils and some specialized industrial oils.

I am in Invercargil at the moment, with one of my reps, and thismorning called on a big bike repairer who changed from a well known French oil two years ago to Gulf Western.

The owner told me that he is now selling oil for a 30% lower price, making more profit and his customers are all very happy with the product performance.

I have been in the lubricants industry for a very long time and would not use any oil in my own bikes unless I was 150% happy with it.

I fully recommend Protecta Ultra for you R1 and also for your WR.

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Post  moto1 Wed 24 Aug 2011, 2:58 pm

I've used it many times in different bikes I've never had a clutch slip problem with Delo 400, I also use Valvoline Durablend and Shell Helix HX5 Diesel all good mate Very Happy
don't be fooled by marketing hype as other folks that pay $110 dollars for 4 litres my tip change it every 4 to 5000 k's max
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Post  scopebud Wed 24 Aug 2011, 3:08 pm

hehe cool good to hear what im reading goes with wat you guys are saying makes me feel better theres others out there using the out of the ordinary oils Smile
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Post  scopebud Sat 27 Aug 2011, 5:58 pm

bit the bullet and got 10 liters of gulf western protec ultra 15w50 will post here on how it goes when i use it ,,wish me luck cheers
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Post  gus Sat 27 Aug 2011, 6:38 pm

Each to there own in choice of oil ( Just give me oil ,how many brands and types do we need ? Shocked )
I just dont think you need to change it every 4,000 kays if you not flogging it to death ,and really who is ?
If i'm touring 10,000 kays is fine for me , and i only use semi . That motor will last you longer than everthing else IMHO.
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Post  scopebud Sat 27 Aug 2011, 8:55 pm

yeah gus this oil i got is semi syn so hope it will be ok ,like you said should be fine Smile
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Post  reddog Sun 28 Aug 2011, 7:35 pm

Mine gets changed at 6000 or if the gear shifts are getting notchy. Will wait to hear how the diesel oil goes before trying it out. Belray semi synth is working ok for me so far but isn't the cheapest.
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Post  scopebud Sun 28 Aug 2011, 10:38 pm

yeah ive read good results on another forum the semi snythetic gulf western protecter ultra is best it would seem even better in some cases than the delo 400 desil
i got some other day 30$ for 5 litres PROTECTA ULTRA
SAE Viscosity: 15w50
Specifi cation: SL/CF
Description: PROTECTA ULTRA boasts
all the performance characteristics
of Protecta Multi Valve however it is
formulated with 30% synthetic base
oil. It maintains the same suitability
as Protecta Multi Valve including its
suitability for use in wet clutches.
Pack Sizes: Bulk, 205lt, 20lt, 5
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